2. Respect the rules your instructor sets. Provide correct age, health, and behavior information on your dog. If your dog doesn’t like men in hats or has bitten someone, likes to challenge other dogs, or is too big or strong for you to handle, tell the truth. 

3. Be willing to use the recommended equipment, or at least give it a try. The same can be said for training methods. If you are set on one thing or another, or can’t abide one thing or another, look around for a different class. You won’t be happy if you are always in conflict with the program that is offered. Also, follow the rules once you are in class, whether it’s what to wear, who can attend with you, or handling your dog in class and on breaks. They are in place to keep everyone successful and safe.

4. Be a participant in the class. Be engaged in the process. Pay attention, ask questions, or ask to see a demonstration. Be willing to have the instructor show an exercise with your dog (unless your dog is uncertain or questionable with strangers). Meet the other students with a smile. They are just as new at this as you are, and you could meet some new friends or even an out-of-class practice buddy. Don’t be afraid to be a little competitive. The peer pressure found in the class environment can work to your advantage and encourage you to practice and really try your best.

5. Understand that class is where you will be taught. At home practice with your dog is where he will be taught. Be sure to allow that necessary time and commit to doing it.

6. Try not to take your instructor’s advice and corrections too personally. He or she has worked with many dogs and students just like you. By the same token, take compliments with a thank you and enjoy the moment. We all are proud of our dogs, be it our first or our fifth.

7. Speaking of your instructor, show your appreciation for their hard work. Some nice words at the last lesson, a little gift, or even the traditional “apple for the teacher” will be much valued by them. Recommending them to others is good.

8. Perhaps most important to your success is the attitude you bring. Be positive and have fun with your dog. After all, he is just glad to be out with you, so take part in his doggy joy. 

There will be ups and downs while training your dog, but if you both enjoy your class, you will find you reach many of your goals. Good luck!

Training with our dogs is meant to be a fun and enjoyable experience for both the dog and the human counterpart. Often though, we find one or both parties becoming bored, frustrated and restless. How can we ensure that we keep the process fun, intriguing and effective? Variety - the spice of life right!

• Change your routine - we tend to get into a habit of practicing certain things in patterns, for example, come, sit and down are often asked for in a repetitive pattern and sometimes this leads to a dog who will anticipate what's next and move on without you, lol.
• You can also change the place in which you tend to practice with your dog. If you tend to practice on one room or the backyard, try a different area of the house or even a quiet park for some variety!
• Practice something new - add a new trick or command to your routine and get your pups brain thinking! You can add simple tricks like shake hands, spin or rollover to spice it up.
• Try practicing with a different tone of voice; we often speak in our "in charge" voice when training our dogs, but they really do respond to any tone when they understand what you’re asking. We like to use our "whisper" voices for a fun way to practice listening skills.
• Change up your rewards - Imagine your favorite treat, now imagine you only get that same treat every single time you want a treat... uhm, eventually it loses it's appeal, right? Same for your dog and the training rewards you use. It is a good idea to have a variety of different food rewards to offer, remember different taste, texture, and size.
• It is also a great idea to have a favorite toy or two that you can pop out and surprise reward them with! When you start to add playtime into the training process, it opens a whole new world of thought for your dog about how important and fun you are!
• You may be surprised at how much more your dog pays attention to you when things are unpredictable and exciting! Invite a friend! - as humans we also tend to get bored with the same dull routine, day after day. Invite a friend to join you in a training session, or a nice walk with your dog and theirs as well if everyone gets along. The benefits will abound for everyone, from working among different distractions to sharing successes together!
• Work at a different pace: you may find yourself moving slowly, trying to get your dog to focus and get things just right, for some reason your dog is not paying attention, sniffing everywhere and it’s not much fun. Try a quick change of pace, find some hidden energy to suddenly burst into excited and happy movements and sounds, encourage your pup with their commands and lots of praise and watch how the entire process suddenly lights up and looks good!

When you find your training practice becoming less and less important or inviting, think outside the box, get creative, add in games and try new places, building the bond with your dog is so well worth all the effort and soon you will find it is always something you are looking forward to, on to the next adventure!

1. Adult survivors

When I graduated college, back in 1975, my upstairs neighbor staffed one of the first abuse hotlines in the country started by an amazing local woman. The statistics (even as under reported as they were) back then were that 1:3 women will have been hurt and harmed by the age of majority, and 1:6 men. Sadly, the statistics, even with better reporting, have not changed since then, and for those in the military, it is estimated that the statistics are 1:2 women and 1:3 men. Some years back Sarah Wilson spoke at the IACP Annual Conference (International Association of Canine Professionals) on the results of her master's thesis looking into the disproportionate numbers of adult survivors drawn to the animal world. My recollection is that those statistics closely resembled those in the military. What this means is that in any lesson you give, or group scenario in the dog world, you are likely to have a 50% chance of teaching to, or interacting with, a female adult survivor and a 33% chance of teaching to, or interacting with, a male adult survivor. Of those, varying percentages will be in healthy, well-established recovery, some in various stages along the path of recovery, and some in utter denial and negative patterning.

In the dog world, one of the rampant tell tales of adult survivors are those rabidly following this "guru" or so-called "mentor" or another, without any independent critical assessment of that person. We can learn from many people but no one person has all the answers, or "the way, the only way". It is possible to learn consumptively from many people without giving away your power and critical thinking. None of us touches all the parts of the elephant. We don't have all the answers in any given scenario. Knowledge gives us tools and choices, and hopefully tools of critical assessment to decide what strategies to employ in a given situation with dogs and their humans. Not all protocols will work in all scenarios. Knowledge is knowing the why behind our decision to proceed in a certain way, not just reciting protocol like a rote bible of dog training.

What does a disproportionate number of adult survivors in the dog world mean for us as instructors?

• Simple basic restraint of leash and collar can trigger restraint and harm issues in the human.
• Simple basic limitations, saying no, blocking, moving into a dog can trigger restraint and harm issues in the human.
• Reaching out to touch someone to demonstrate a concept can trigger issues.
• A classic is that simple, basic corrections to the dog, or drawing clear behavioral boundaries with the dog can be perceived as hurt and harm.
• More subtly, changing motor patterns or behavioral protocols with a dog can feel threatening, negative, or scary to the client as change may have precipitated negative response in the past, regardless of whether the current patterns are grossly inappropriate or even flat out dangerous. They are habituated in the body and brain which carries a certain neurobiological impact that the brain thinks have facilitated survival, even if it was very dysfunctional survival, and the core neurobiology will be resistant to change on a subconscious level.
• This may manifest in many different ways, and may have other causes, but a classic is the client/student/staff who wants to change and repeatedly says so, but physically does the same negative patterns no matter how many times you have demonstrated, modeled, taught an alternative protocol/posture/sequence. Even for those deep in recovery this can be a toughie, becoming aware enough of past patterns to shift even simple motor patterns.
• A client/colleague may have many negative tapes about their ability/inability to do/learn/be successful at something.
• Regardless of where someone is in conscious, intentional recovery, changing may feel really threatening inside (again mostly on the subconscious level) and the client/colleague/staff may blame the person (you) asking them to change because by definition, change is making them feel unsafe.
• The simplest pieces of instruction that are merely about space and movement can carry an emotional overtone.
• Critique or suggestions can be perceived as hurt and harm.
• Learning can loop and loop and loop ad infinitum without progress. Trying to move someone out of looping can result in massive opposition or denial. Or someone can come a long way and hit a new threshold of resistance to change. Recovery is NEVER a straight line, it is always a spiral process and issues will be revisited, over and over, hopefully a little higher in the spiral but not always.
• Change can precipitate human health issues that derail the training process.
• A client can start patterning various avoidance behaviors --- cancelled lessons, arriving late, various excuses for non-compliance or non-practice.
• Patently obvious non-truth speaking about practice or challenges at home.
• Positive change in the dog can unfortunately trigger sabotage in the owner who is not yet ready to change. Again change = an unintentional neurobiological feeling of lack of safety.
• Critique = criticism vs. critique opening the pathway to progress. Critique/comments/suggestions can be perceived of as criticism no matter how carefully worded rather than guidance to opening the doorway to progress.

2. Diminished motor skills and proprioception on the part of the humans (and dogs).

One of the distinct side effects of the pandemic is/was a marked diminution of both fine motor and gross motor skills in humans (and dogs). You will see this affecting spatial perceptions, ability to integrate new motor patterns, ability to sequence motor skills, ability to retain motor skills, ability to recruit motor skills to problem solve. So, leash work, leash handling, long line handling and timing for marking and rewarding will all be profoundly affected. And unless we have worked really hard since Covid, this will be affecting all of us, as well as our clients. "Simple" things like walking in a straight line with their/our dog, doing left, right, or about turns may all be impacted. Rally exercises, whether you or your clients ever compete, are super great for re-tuning motor skills as they are intentionally constructed to recruit left side and right side coordination, cross brain, and cross body coordination. Another great source of information for increasing human coordination is a little book called Brain Gym by Gail and Paul Dennison.

Impaired or awkward motor skills may also be a symptomatic deficit in adult survivors from very mild to severe, based on false beliefs/messages about their skills and abilities, or ineffective programmed motor patterns. Changing these may trigger old tapes or neurological feelings of being unsafe. Again, your basic leash handling may be a loaded exercise.

3. Diminished sensory processing abilities on the part of the human (and the dog).

One of the more subtle and complex areas of impact of the pandemic is/was to diminish sensory processing skills. This is very much still in effect. Every single person has been affected by the isolation effect of the pandemic but not in any uniform way. There is huge variety across the spectrum, and many have rebuilt their skill levels, but I still see it every day with myself, clients, and colleagues. A simple example - did you notice when you came back out in the world, that stores seemed too bright, too loud, too chaotic, that things seemed to be coming at you too fast? Do you feel like you multitask less well than before? Do you find that yourself or your clients seem to have a really hard time following "simple" concept sequences? Or retaining them? Do you find you or your clients getting confused or disoriented in a group setting? Out in public?? Movements, coordination, or sequencing ok in lessons, but fall apart in a real-life setting? Trial or competition setting?? The impact of diminished sensory processing skills is not a black and white, on/off response but it varies along a continuum. Getting flustered or emotional, distracting the focus of the lessons with side stories, asking innumerable questions or otherwise derailing the process may all be tell tales that the person is having processing difficulties.

(Like walking into a casino...)

All these tendencies or behaviors may be totally subconscious and may or may not have roots or connections pre-Covid in the person's abilities or disabilities, or in being an adult survivor.

Dog training may really trigger awkwardness from any or all of these issues as it is a skill set that involves mental processing at the same time we are physically processing our own movement, while simultaneously having to assess and respond to the behavior and movement of another living creature - kind of like dancing only much less predictable. The need to stay present in the moment is obviously critical, but doing so requires a high level of sensory processing and movement capability not always available in all moments.

4. Conclusions

I wish I could say I have the definitive protocol - Steps 1 through 10 that provide a miraculous solution to the above considerations. I don't. Not even close. But what I find is that sometimes an awareness of these issues in our particular community lets me find more useful words, or break down a skill set into better pieces, revise a lesson plan or a curriculum, and perhaps most of all (but most difficult) not take someone else's discomfort or struggle personally but just click into problem solving mode. Reversing the mirror, I also find the awareness of the multipronged impact of these factors allows me to cut myself a break when I am trying to learn something or teach something.

© Studley Ozuna 2024

Over a month ago early in the morning I was walking my dogs. I have two strong males, Johnny GSD and Harry, and also sweet Rupert. We were just starting our walk with Harry and Rupert up ahead, when I heard Rupert scream. Screaming is not normal and I knew something was wrong. I called both dogs back. Harry came running with full hackles from neck to tail - I’d never even seen hackles like that on him before. There was no Rupert, which was abnormal and not a good sign. I was worried and raced up the hill. I had not gotten far when Pippa was looking across my body and barking, with her tail straight up. I looked to see what she was barking at, and it took me a moment to see it. Right next to me, camouflage in the grass and branches was a big cougar, holding her ground, crouched, ears flat, and wagging her tail at me.

I thought she had Rupert so I charged her waving weapons. I was so angry and adrenalized thinking she had my Rupert. I ran at her wanting to kill her. Time then stood still. I charged and she calmly awaited my arrival. It was incredibly demotivating to realize how powerless I was.

Here is where noble Kate stepped in and charged. My little Border Collie ran aggressively at an animal more than double her size. I think she bit the cat in the side. Even if she didn’t, she made a noble attempt as the cat swung around and swatted at her. Both the cat and Kate realized she was a food source. Kate casually said, “I tried” and came and stood next to me. As Kate left, the cat squared up on me again, staring at me. Now all my dogs, but Rupert, were with me, awaiting instructions. Not knowing if Rupert was alive or dead, I needed the cat to leave so I could find him. Plus, the cat’s focus was on me, in a crouched position ready to pounce, ten feet away. I sent Johnny in, and he charged barking. He did move the cat away momentarily, then she squared up on me and moved closer. Whenever she squared up, she was 10 feet away staring me in the eyes.

Watching Johnny fail to scare her, I panicked and sent Harry. Harry flew in, never slowed down, and never made a sound. He’d been waiting his whole life for this moment. He intended to knock her flat and she knew it, and ran away, in the direction of Rupert who screamed again. I now knew he was alive albeit terrified. Once she ran away, he ran back as fast as he could, and got into my car even faster.

Most of my client’s have Rupert type dogs - when a true threat is presented they scream and run away to hide. Some have Kates, filled with bluster, who can be a struggle to live with and control. The Johnny and Harry type dogs are of a different league, filled with courage and desire to fight. They are a disaster in most homes.

There are rumblings that the Harry and Johnny type dogs no longer have a place in society - why do we need dogs that want to fight?

This type of dog is bred for the military and police, and are bred to fight and enjoy it. Working dogs have an equally valued place in society as the Ruperts and Kates. In this scenario, this cougar wanted to fight me and my six dogs. Without Harry and Johnny the cougar would have won. I wouldn’t be writing now.

I live to hike and explore. With my boys, I know I’m safe out there. This type of dog is not for most, but that doesn’t negate their value and importance. These dogs have taken years and years to create. If we start to breed them softer so that the average dog owner can succeed with them, it would take many generations of breeding to get the hardness and desire to fight back.

Sports like IGP breed these dogs for the military and police. In competition the dog’s character and desire to fight are tested, and scored. This tiny little sport will seem odd to most, but plays a valuable societal role in keeping top genetic bloodlines available for police and military. Harry and Johnny both come from IGP bloodlines and Harry’s brother is a successful police dog in the USA. It is vital that this sport continues to test the true character so that we do not lose the dogs with courage for easier to manage false bluster.

You might ask what Pippa did throughout this encounter. She laid down on the path, scared, wanting the conflict to stop, and was scared to go walking for the next week! 

Monique comments: I was recently training dogs in Europe and got to appreciate the challenges of training my young powerful and talented Malinois where training tools are forbidden. We did okay, only to realize that tool bans are not the final step. Sports such as IGP are now under scrutiny, and even bigger, the question of why do we need to own this type of dog. I wrote this in response to this question, and encourage everyone to start sharing stories to educate people on the value of some of our breeds.

One of the first things to consider is whether your dog is being properly exercised. Proper daily exercise will help drain your pup of excess energy and allow the brain to settle down into a more trainable and livable state. For every dog this can mean something different. A small lap dog may only need a quiet, leisurely walk to help him settle down, while an active minded Weimaraner may need a morning run, an afternoon game of fetch and a long evening stroll to get his mind settled and calm. Understanding your breed or your dog’s breed purpose will help you unravel this mystery.

Take a good look at the food you’re feeding. Don't be afraid to switch up and see if the changes you need will occur. We have seen dogs being affected by the dye in some foods, acting like children with dye allergies, just unyieldingly hyper-active and seemingly unable to focus. When changed to a color free food, they have settled down into a much more comfortable state of mind and become much easier to work with. Similarly, we have seen some dogs with too high of a protein level in their food go from a shivering, energetic bundle of nerves to a much calmer and more in control of themselves state of being. You may need to switch up a few times before you find what helps for your dog, but it is a piece of the puzzle not to be overlooked.

Over stimulation of dogs is quite common. We all love the attention our dogs thrust upon us when we have been out of sight for a day, or a few hours, but accepting and even encouraging this behavior can lead to several behavior issues. One of the biggest problems we see is over-exuberant greetings at the door; jumping, whining, piddling and even nipping can occur. Unfortunately, we as the dogs’ owners and caretakers often accidentally teach and encourage this behavior from day one. Puppies are cute and we all love when they want to show us their love and affection, but take a good look at that picture; dog stands up on our leg, we pet and baby talk and encourage. Fifty pounds later we have a dog who is just repeating what they've always been rewarded for except now it’s suddenly making the owner very upset. The dog doesn't understand what has suddenly changed or why you’re upset.

Excited piddling can also occur due to over stimulation when getting attention, sometimes it’s just overwhelming for the dog and they will submissively piddle at your feet, which for dogs is an acceptable way of declaring I want to be friends, and you can be in charge. Of course, as people, we do not appreciate this communication and may get frustrated, yell or be mad at the dog, which just compounds the problem.

Trying to understand the situation from the dog’s point of view can be quite eye opening and provides insight into why things may be occurring and what might help to stop the issue. Seeking the help of professional experienced trainers when needed can make the entire process much easier and faster for you and your dog.

This year is a special one for The National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors. Not only is 2025 our 60^th anniversary, but even more important, it brings a big change in our structure. We are pleased and proud to announce the creation of our Associate Membership. This is a completely new and exciting membership and is an addition to our long-standing Certified Membership. NADOI will welcome those who are pet and companion dog owners, trainers, breeders, working and sport dog owners, competition participants in many venues, and lastly but certainly important, those who support the mission of NADOI and our outlook for the future of training dogs and people in our industry.

It is easy to enroll in our NADOI Associate Membership. Simply visit the Associate Membership page for more information and registration procedures. Dues will be very reasonable and starting out at $35 a year. There is not a lot of paperwork, or no test to pass. The entire process is fast and user-friendly, so we encourage interested dog people to check it out!

NADOI is making certain that our Associate Members will enjoy the benefits of our organization. It is important to us that these members find a place where all members are welcome, regardless of training tools or methods, and where sharing knowledge and assisting one another has always been part of our long history. Advantages to membership will include discounts on business insurance and educational events, serving on most committees, and access to NADOI’s web site and social media. We will be continually working to find new benefits as we learn what is important to our new members.

Change can be a challenge for any organization, and for one as enduring and respected as NADOI, it becomes a big deal. Our Certified Members are looking forward to welcoming our new Associate Members, and we are hoping one of them will be YOU!

It’s very important to recognize stress in your dog early enough to be able to help your dog overcome whatever is perceived as stressful. Dogs use certain signals to: prevent things from happening (for example, threats from people or animals), or calm nervousness (fear, noise, or anything that they feel is unpleasant). Often, the signals come in quick movements, so quick that we need to really look to see them. As you acquire more experience, you will learn to see these small “flashes.” Other dogs see them. Practice, knowing what to look for, and lots of observations will allow you to catch a glimpse of these signals. At times, you will even be able to see how your dog is feeling. Consequently, you will understand your dog much better. And, isn’t that what we all want? Let’s begin…

TURNING OF THE HEAD: Your dog may use head turning when another dog is approaching in order to tell the other dog to calm down. Maybe your dog was approached too fast or directly head-on instead of in an arc. If you stoop over your dog, the dog’s head may turn. Your dog may stand still, and the head turns, which tells you your dog is experiencing some discomfort in the situation. You can use head turning yourself when a dog starts to get worried or frightened when you approach. When a scared dog starts to bark or growl at you, turn your head.

TURNING AWAY: If your dog turns his back or side to you, he is telling you that he is friendly, trusts you, and is calm. In other words, your dog is trusting that you won’t attack from behind. If your dog jumps up at you, turn away; most likely the dog will stop.

LICKING NOSE: A very quick movement of the dog’s tongue over their nose is a calming signal. Perhaps the dog sees something in the distance coming his way, and he stops, turns his head and licks several times. These behaviors are often referred to as “tongue flicks.”

FREEZING: Often, dogs will freeze, stop, stand, sit, or lie still without moving a muscle when a much bigger dog comes up too close and starts sniffing them all over.

WALKING SLOWLY OR USING SLOW MOVEMENTS: Movements that become slower- sometimes so slow that there is hardly any movement at all-have a calming effect on the dog. If lots of things are going on around your dog, the slower you move, the better the chance you have of making him stand still. For example, if you want to put a leash on your dog, the slower you move, the better the chance you will have of making your dog stand still.

PLAY POSITION: A dog going down with front legs in a bowing position may be an invitation to play. If the dog stands still in a bow, the possibility of this being a calming signal is high. Humans can send the dog a signal by stretching their arms, yawning, stretching down. Your dog may also use this signal when meeting another dog that he does not feel to sure about.

GOING DOWN: When a dog goes down (or gives an even stronger signal by going down with the back to a human) – these actions have a very calming effect on the dog. This signal is often seen when one dog wants to calm another dog who is approaching too quickly. Your dog may do this when you yell to make him come. Humans can use this signal by sitting down when your dog is stressed and cannot relax.

DOWN: A dog lying down on his back with belly up is called “submissive behavior.”. Lying down with belly to the ground is a calming act. This can be a strong signal, too, often used by high ranking dogs.

YAWNING: Yawning is probably one of the most intriguing signals. Your dog may yawn when entering the veterinarian clinic. Humans can use the yawn when your dog feels uncertain, a bit scared, stressed, worried, or when you want him to calm down.

SNIFFING: Dogs sniff in a variety of ways. They can sniff the ground or floor quickly and back up again. Or, a dog can be persistently standing in place for some time until the problem situation is over. Because dogs also sniff to detect smells, humans must see the whole situation in order to understand what it is. Dogs use sniffing when another dog is approaching, when someone is walking straight at them, or when two dogs very suddenly approach too closely. If you call your dog and are a bit annoyed, too commanding with your voice, or perhaps you are standing in full front of your dog, he may sniff several times while coming. Humans can help the dog relax by sitting and scratching the ground.

SPLITTING UP: Physically moving in between dogs or people can send a calming signal to dogs. If dogs or humans, or a dog and human get too close together, the situation can become tense. Many dogs will go between to “split up” the closeness and to avoid conflict. Your dog may do this if you sit tightly together with a friend on the sofa. If dogs become tense, humans can step in between them to ease the situation. Children can do things that make dogs feel uneasy or frightened. In these cases, a human stepping in between can avoid conflict.

TAIL WAGGING: A dog wagging its tail is not always a sign of happiness. Again, we must look at the whole picture. If the dog is crawling toward their human, whining or peeing, the wagging tail is a “white flag” signaling an attempt to calm down.

STRESS VOCALIZATION: Signs that a dog is stressed include: whining, dry and/or heavy wet panting, increased respiration rate, cheek puffing and teeth-clicking.

DOG NOT EATING: A dog refusing to eat could be a sign of stress. For example, the dog refusing to take a treat in obedience class can be a sign of stress.

SHEDDING: A dog excessively shedding can be a sign of stress. Sometimes, a handler may see excessive shedding when the dog visits the veterinarian.

BLINKING EYES: Dogs will frequently blink their eyes to calm us or other dogs down. Humans can also this to calm our dogs down.

SWEATY PAWS: Another signal of a stressed dog is when they leave paw prints on the floor. This can happen in training classes, or during a visit to the veterinarian.

SHAKING OFF: When a dog engages in a full body shake, s/he may be attempting to calm down, or “shake it off.”

RAISED PAW: Not only is a dog raising a front paw a form of submission, it is also an attempt to calm things down, yet another calming signal.

MAKING A “SOFT” FACE: A dog is sending a calming signal when s/he makes a “soft face,” including eyes back, eyelids lowered, forehead smoothed, or mouth closed.

SCRATCHING: Dogs will often make an attempt to calm themselves by suddenly sitting, possibly turning away, and scratching themselves. This “deflection” happens frequently in training classes when a dog is learning something new; after all, learning can often be stressful for our dogs.

There are many benefits in understanding your dog’s body language. In doing so, handlers gain insights about how the dog is feeling; therefore, becoming advocates for their dog. When we pay close attention to these signals, we build a healthy and even stronger relationship with our dogs. Understanding calming signals and body language can frequently minimize our frustration and misunderstanding of what is really happening. As handlers, we can become more empathetic and find solutions to support our dogs in various situations. Calm, quality interactions are more beneficial to building communication skills with our dogs than quantity of interactions. Being able to communicate with your dog builds a trusting relationship in which your dog is able to see you as being on its side, as well as a supportive partner. Better yet, handlers gain insights as to whether or not certain stressors provide a good opportunity for learning (within the dog’s skill set), or whether it is best to call it quits for the day. Finally, it’s vital that handlers LOOK, LISTEN, and LEARN about the reasons behind canine behaviors and calming signals. Indeed, the world of dog language is fascinating!

References:

            Coulee Region Humane Society (Onalaska, Wisconsin)

            What are Canine Calming Signals & How Do They Work? https://www.psychologytoday.com

Before I begin, I will say that after a great deal of consideration and a long life making difficult decisions about multiple animals and working with many friends and colleagues doing the same, the very least helpful thing I know is the phrase, "You will know when it is time." There is a certain twisted truth in this, but the agony, self-questioning, guilt, shame, and mindless helplessness this phrase has created over the years to so many people are part of what has prompted me to put pen to paper.

I will start by going through my personal checklist.

1. Years ago, while living in Mexico, I was trying to make a decision about my first and dearly loved German Shepherd who had something going wrong in her wrist joint which was erupting into layers of fluid and calcification.  The overt status was clear, it looked like Mt Vesuvius had erupted, but we could not find a cause.  We suspected cancer but all the tests were negative.  However, the pain level was clear and nasty.  When I asked my beloved U.S. veterinarian on the border what/when/if, he looked at me and quietly said, "there has to be a quality of life for both parties --- dog and owner." That shocked me then, mostly because I wasn't expecting the depth of his compassionate insight, and his words resonated deeply.  I have never forgotten those words, and I have come to know the deep truth of them. This from a Catholic boy, I wasn't even sure performed euthanasia. "There has to be a quality of life for both."

1. I will add two corollaries to this concept. Expense is real. The impact of expense on the quality of life for the human is real, and has to be taken into account. If the economic impacts of intervention or continuing treatment are going to carve a negative path of chaos for the human half of the equation that is not creating healing energy. Those considerations matter, and are legitimate and real. We will not at all times in our life have unlimited funds to pursue all options, and we needn't excoriate ourselves for that lack. We each do the very best we can in the moment.
2. A colleague recently used an evocative phrase -- "If you are working that hard to give your dog a quality of life, that's probably a dead giveaway that there isn't a quality of life." Clearly, that will play out on a gradual continuum over time, but it is useful as a reference marker, and again brings us back to the notion of "quality of life for both".

2. On to my friend Liz, a petite British woman who raised Arabian horses, and had raised Dobermans, indeed was one of the original breeders in the midwest, who in later years rescued greyhounds and slept in this gigantic bed with tiny her and about 6 large, greyhounds. As we went through various losses over the years, some timely, some early, some too late and messy she turned to me one night and said, "No matter when you do it, it's either too early or too late, but having experienced both, I'd rather be too early then too late." That became our mantra. After that pronouncement and the discussion that followed, I gave up the notion "they will tell you when they are ready." Perhaps, someone somewhere has such a clear spiritual contract with their animals, but it is a very rare thing, even for those of us who live close to the bone with our animals.  There is no question that some of my animals have given more signs than others, and some have quietly checked out without my participation.  But the vast majority of my personal animals would soldier on with only pieces of their organs functioning and every limb falling off. "I'm fine," they say as they totter up off their beds and stumble to the door, "Just fine." "Is it walk time?"

3. Organ breakdown. Sooo, as a modification to Liz's mantra, I keep my eye on and evaluate organ systems. What signs of breakdown do I see and on how many fronts? The higher the number of systems involved, the closer to the end we are coming.  Start with the basics -- do your senior wellness blood panel once a year if at all possible.  Know your dog's values. Hopefully you have run baseline x rays (minimal just hips, best case hips and spine) when the dog was young at approximately two years of age, so you can evaluate musculoskeletal change as the dog ages. In the best of all possible worlds, money allowing you can run follow up x-rays every 3 to 5 years as your dog ages to check the rate of change.  There is so much we can do now to slow and or treat arthritis and other skeletal changes in dogs.  (See my article on Pain Management options.) Standard annual diagnostic tests help us make the management and treatment decisions.

Acquaint yourself with signs of doggie dementia, what used to be broadly referred to as "sundowner's syndrome".  Again, there is so much more now we can do proactively ahead of time to slow cognitive dysfunction in our pets.

Smells in aging dogs are the stuff of a million memes and bad jokes but smells are important. Know what the sweet pungent odor of ketoacidosis smells like in an aging animal. Pay attention to changes in urine and/or feces.  What is the skin doing?  The hair? The teeth and mouth? Radical changes in smells are a red flag to check with your veterinarian.

If the animal gets to the point where we have 3 or more systems involved, in my opinion we are moving into that twilight world where we need to start asking the hard questions.  It helps to keep notes on our dog's condition, as they give us a reality check on how much, or how little has changed. Comparison is your friend, because changes to our beloveds can happen imperceptibly over a long time until "suddenly" they are in the grey zone, and we are reeling from the emotional impact of that realization.  I just saw an early video of my recently departed elder shepherd and I cringed at the vast changes in movement that had occurred over time.  Our ubiquitous phones can be great allies in documenting posture, movement and attitude over time.  Still pics and videos offer realistic feedback on the aging process or the impact of disease or injury that memory can distort.

In conclusion, I would like to end with another apt phrase from a dear and deeply knowledgeable colleague.  "If you are asking the questions, there are in fact, already reasons why you are asking them." This is where, yes, for sure, pay attention to your intuition but couple that with information. What are you observing or wrestling with that is leading you to ask end of life questions??  Write that stuff down. Observe. Talk with your vet.  Research.  Yup, dialogue with your animal. These decisions are intensely personal. I can only share with you the constructs I use to keep myself from spinning off the planet during times of intense grief.

1. What is the quality of life for both the two legged and four legged members of the partnership?
2. For me, sooner is better than later. (And this will be a very personal choice for everyone. I am just stating my bias.)
3. Where are we on the continuum of system breakdowns?

My deepest compassion to anyone confronting these choices.

(c) Studley Ozuna 2024

While we need to teach with food and toys and praise, these need to be considered teaching tools. Your teaching tools are there to help you clarify the concept that you are trying to communicate, but in no way should be keeping your dog engaged and with you. Your dog needs to be enjoying working with you, and should not be working for his food. While this almost looks the same, there is a ginormous difference.

If you are confused by what I mean, go take all leashes and training equipment off your dog, and empty your pockets, and go and stand still. Is your dog pestering you to do something with them? If yes, all is good. If all you see is a tail and a bum, then when you get your food they are suddenly ever-present, you have some work to do.

I do not want my dogs thinking, "If I do this, I get that." It won't hold when I need them the most.

What we need to instill into our dogs is an inner joy for their work. If they love their work, the work itself becomes the reward.

Rewards quickly steal the play from play and turn it into work. Alternately, focusing on the learning of the work can turn it into play. If you don't believe me, ask some young kids to help you wash your car and observe how they enjoy the sponges and the bubbles, and their finished product. Then the next time pay them $5 for washing your car. Do that twice, and see the difference in their enjoyment as they do it. Rewards stop inherent enjoyment - and instead get us focused on the reward at the end, not the job at hand.

However, there are exceptions where, "If I do this, then I get that," rewards are needed. They have a place when it comes to dull, mundane practice, such as is necessary for any repeated drill like fronts and finishes, that has no purpose to the dog. As Evan Graham says, "Leave something in it for the dog". If the work itself gives the dog nothing, then we need to add it.

Intrinsic Motivation is complex, and will take a while for you to wrap your brain around. Rewards do have a time and place, but the difficulty arises when they are expected. The focus and enjoyment on the challenges of the work lose their value and enjoyment, and rather become a roadblock to their reward. We need to create joyful work, and joyful moments, and find the right balance. Allow work to become enjoyable work, (with a reward at the end) rather than focusing on the reward at the end.

Monique Anstee NADOI-CI #1100, author of "As a Dog Thinketh," is from Victoria, BC CANADA

If you have ever worked a small dog, you know how much bending is sometimes necessary.  Even those in the best shape and young in years can find that hard to do.  Table work is a great help, but sooner or later you’ll need to be moving briskly with your tiny dog, and maybe wishing you were more athletic or, in my case, quite a bit younger!  And we do ask a lot of these smaller dogs, as they need to carefully watch our feet and legs, and really stretch those little necks to pay attention to their handler “way up there.”

A solid lead can be a big help when working small dogs.  Think of what it would be like if you could starch and stiffen your normal leash so that the lower three feet or so would be rigid.  All signals with your hands on the leash would be easily transmitted down to your small dog, without you bending and stooping. Keeping slack in the lead for heeling would be easy as well.  The solid lead can do this.

The solid lead should not take the place of a normal leash but thought of as a useful tool for those handlers who have a harder time bending.  It is particularly good for senior citizens and those pet or beginning trainers who may not have a lot of leash finesse.

The easiest way to make your leash rigid is probably to simply run it through a length of small diameter PVC pipe.  Grasping the end lightly with your left hand will allow you to remain much more upright yet give heeling corrections to the dog, sits, and particularly downs.  I have also used wrapping paper rolls in a pinch, although they usually don’t hold up long.

Although the pipe method can work well, I think constructing a solid lead from scratch is even better.  My favorite material is a simple wood dowel.  Choose a diameter and length based on the size and strength of the dog.  It should be sturdy, but light enough in your hand that it isn’t cumbersome.  On one end, screw an eyebolt through the dowel, and on the other wrap tape or light cord for a nice grip.

Once you and your dog get a feel for the solid lead, it is easy to use, and saves you a lot of bending.  Naturally, the hope is that you won’t have to use it long once your dog catches on.  It’s a tool that has been around for a very long time, but still provides a good solution to a common problem!

Experienced trainers and instructors use many kinds of lines when working with a dog. Leashes, long lines, lunge lines, tab lines, shark lines, and even flexi leash lines are all commonplace tools. One kind of line seems to be less known by newer trainers, and that is the house line. I always like using it as it is simple, straightforward, and easy for dogs and people to understand.

The house line is just a length of cord or lightweight line attached to the dog’s collar and used inside the house. The trainer is not holding onto the end. The length and weight of the line should match the size of the dog. Six feet might be perfect for a big dog, while a small dog needs only three or four feet. Para-cord is good, as is sash cord. Some trainers like lightweight nylon, or even fishing line, for small dogs. Metal or plastic chain isn’t good. The end that is dragged ideally should not have a handle, knot, loop, or anything that could cause it to catch on things like furniture. I like the house line to be attached to a buckle collar, but I have seen it hooked on a harness. I don’t recommend attaching the line to a head collar of any type.

Why use a house line? It can be a good “bridge” for that dog that is making progress being loose in the house but not quite all the time. It enables the trainer to easily keep the dog close by, correct long distance for jumping up on people or counters, for putting feet up on furniture, the baby’s carrier, a person eating who should not be crawled upon, or really anything else you don’t want the dog getting into. If you are working on a down stay while you sit and read, the house line can be quite useful as you can place a foot on it if needed. Maybe the dog needs to do better at walking instead of running in the house. Perhaps you have company coming and need a little bit of extra control.

Once attached to the dog’s collar, the house line acts as a “long arm” of the trainer. It is easy to take up and give a little correction or warning, or the trainer can even step on the line. The beauty of a house line is that it’s a passive tool as well as an active one. The house line many times seems to change the emotion or mood of the dog. I don’t know why this happens, but it does appear to calm an active dog and allow restless dogs to “settle” faster. It appears to take bold dogs down “a notch or two,” and help them understand that you are leader.

In most circumstances, a house line isn’t used with young puppies, as they may see the line as just another toy or something to chew. Besides, young puppies need our full attention when loose in the house.

Dogs shouldn’t be on a house line all the time. Only use it when you are there and observing the dog. The line can certainly wrap around an end table and pull a lamp over on the dog or worse. Be cautious when walking around as you can find yourself catching a shoe on the line or even tripping. As with any tool, know how to use it safely and pay attention.

Give the house line a try. Used properly and safely, it can work wonders for the dog while you don’t have to be actively engaged, other than making sure he stays where you can see him. The house line is a tool that has been around a while but deserves modern day use!

Helen is a Life Member and past President of NADOI, and is currently serving as Corresponding Secretary

Here's the scoop. My rescued doberman Tazer has always had high prey drive. Yep. Lots of fun, but can be channeled positively also. One way I found to 'entertain' his overly active high energy was to use those small little pet 'laser flashlights' for him to chase and get into that 'zone' for fun. He absolutely loves chasing it. He would even randomly go try to pick up a small pen, keychain, anything that had the same shape, to bring it to you to convey that he wanted to play that laser game.

Fast forward...years later, we haven't taken out the laser for some time and Tazer is now 10. I now have grandkids...preschool age. I have always been cautious with Tazer around the grandkids because his energy may have been one reason he was relinquished in the first place. He was too much energy and too high prey drive and probably chased the toddler in the home he was residing, causing him to be banished to the garage. I was the lucky one. My grandson came over to the house. I have Tazer on leash and things are going along smoothly, until...I see that wild eye appear and Tazer wants to lunge at my grandson, for what seems no good reason at all. Later on I am trying to figure out what the heck triggered that response. Then...it dawned on me...my grandson was wearing flashing laser light show gym shoes and it sparked that drive into high gear for my dog. And I encouraged and probably added to that excited state of mind. Now changing gears, I now own a 1.5 year old female German Shepherd dog, not as high prey drive, but a young lady nonetheless. I have never played laser light with her. During a recent group training class, though, the peanut gallery of onlookers and dogs for the next class are seated nearby the ring in sight. A little girl comes in and cannot sit still, and yes, she is wearing laser light show gym shoes. My dog could not take her eyes off of her and those shoes.

These encounters have led me to take note and share how something this simple can trigger responses from your dog, something we may not figure out or be aware of the who, what, where, when and why of. Observe your dog, learn what triggers different responses, and work or 'proof' your dog using that knowledge!

Kathleen Bidstrup #1146

The Suburbanization of the Modern Dog and Its Impact on Dog Training

About a decade ago, I began to see changes in the rate of sequencing of the dogs I was training. Many of the dogs and pups we train come into training out of balance, mentally and physically, over adrenalinized and over aroused, let alone untrained or with bad manners. For years and years, normalizing that state of being and training our normal training progressions took a certain amount of time, within a fairly fixed range -- dog after dog after dog. But what I began to see routinely was that what used to take, for e.g., three days on 100s and 100s of dogs was now taking double or triple that amount of time, if not more. In addition, the amount of resistance, the amount of drama, the amount of aberrant processing of information, and concurrently the lack of engagement, focus and biddability were all disturbingly off the charts.

Maybe things had gotten weird in my region? Maybe I had lost my effectiveness? Maybe the changes in my home teaching pack had impacted training progressions? Maybe these were isolated instances? Maybe I was imagining things? But over time I kept hearing similar comments from colleagues, and a description of "slow learners" with various descriptions that dovetailed with what I was seeing. Over time, I kept seeing the same changing patterns in my training dogs and those of other colleagues. I began roughly tracking these patterns in the dogs

I was seeing and similar issues in the dogs being trained by colleagues across the country. We videoed dogs, wrote up case studies, and compared notes across thousands of training sessions, across every geographic area and an enormous spectrum of dogs.

Some clear trends, causes, and effects emerged as discussed below. For milleniums, one of the overriding evolutionary principles of the human/dog bond has been the recurring genetic selection for biddability and usefulness of the dog, Coppinger's theory of the "village dog" -- the most biddable creature being fed, and thus their genetics preserved and extended over generations. In my opinion, what we are seeing is the wholesale destruction of that evolutionary principle in an extraordinarily artificially concentrated period of time. Yes, there are still great chunks of intentional breeding by preservation breeders to offset this trend, but that there is a massive trend occurring, I no longer doubt. The question is what then remains of this creature we call dog and how do the changing trends of genetic composition, and physical, mental and social development affect what we teach, how we teach, and larger questions of education in the dog community at large.

There is no question that there is also an extrinsic component of changing social mores with respect to owners and handlers, ranging from mild enabling to overt infantilization to extreme anthropomorphism that substantially impacts the attitude, trainability and learning capacity of the dogs we are seeing. However, for purposes of this examination, I am looking solely at parameters intrinsic to the dogs we see.

Suburbanization Defect Causes

Genetic factors:

• Unstable genetics -- incompatible mixed drives, and/or mixed instinct pools

• Cross breeding

• Lack of intentional purpose/function breeding in crossbreds and diminished purpose/function breeding in some sectors (by no means universal but a factor) within a breed or across breeds.

• Lack of intentional breeding and culling for positive

• genetic behavioral traits such as biddability, tolerance, and lower arousal states.

Proprioceptive and developmental factors:

• Social isolation -- from other dogs, from other places, from other people, from other settings

• Level ground and smaller confined spaces

• Delayed socialization on misguided vet recommendations Lack of touch

• Lack of movement

• Lack of movement over uneven ground and a commensurate lack of proprioceptive development

• Lack of movement education Lowered expectations

• Lack of overall proper development: physical and mental

Effects

Lowered resilience to any kind of stress or pressure

Lowered PQ (proprioceptive quotient)

Lowered Learning Capacity in all segments, manifesting in different ways with different dogs:

• Inability to absorb information

• Inability to retain information

• Inability to sequence information

• Inability to generalize information

• Inability to extrapolate information

• Inability to problem solve

Lowered amount and skill of social (canine) language Lowered social stability

Lowered biddability

Conflicting drives from mixed genetics

Mixed profiles

• E.g. high drive with low biddability, high drive with low resilience, low LC (Learning Capacity) and PQ (Properioceptive Quotient) but high intelligence (so high frustration tendencies/neurotic)

Skewed arousal and normalization curves, so that the ability to process adrenaline is compromised

Decreased tolerance levels

What's Changeable, What's Not

Not:

• Genetics

• Natal personality

• Natal drives

• (Understanding what those are is critical.)

Changeable/trainable:

• (What do you/can you strengthen, what do you diminish or extinguish.)

• Biddability (to a certain degree will always be what it is and may continually present a challenge to shaping behaviors, but may be increased to more functional levels)

• Arousal Levels

• Ability to process adrenaline

• Learning Capacity

• Proprioceptive Capacity

• Tolerance -- to spatial pressure, touch, sensory input (including noise, visuals, movement), duration of work, amount of information,

• Resilience

How does this all affect our training models and our daily work? What new components might we need to add or develop as individuals or as organizations:

• Prescreening necessities and different more comprehensive prescreening assessments

• Preprogram homework

• Drive building - precautions

• Drive harvesting - cherish every morsel

• Pre-learning exercises (learning to learn) at the beginning of lessons or a board and train program

• Developing learning readiness evaluation protocols

• Increased clarity -- Marker System imperatives Chunking things down in smaller pieces

• Time lines may need to lengthen out

• Increased need for open space

• Planning of training spaces and property may need to include PQ space (space for the development of the proprioceptive quotient (PQ) in the dogs

• Finding and preserving safe PQ areas

• Creating puppy and adolescent development programs for normalizing development

• Educating trainers about what normal development should look like and how to recognize deviations from normal

Conclusion

In my opinion, we are seeing an artificially compressed and massive genetic shift in the creature we call dog, in many instances away from a balanced, tolerant, receptive, biddable creature. It is imperative that we recognize this and both takes steps to stop this trend and steps to customize and perhaps shift our teaching curriculums for both the dogs and their owners to more accurately reflect modern dog's ability to receive and process information. We need to take a look at what we are creating and get back to intentional breeding. We need to diversify our teaching methodologies to encompass a wider range of learning readiness and learning capacity in the pups and dogs we are instructing. Much learning and development can take place but if we are not cognizant of potential areas of difficulty we are left beating our heads against the wall wondering why Fido is so hard to teach.

(c) Ozuna 2020

I have a variety of dogs. I have sloth like Rupert, my Basset, who is a delight to live with. And then I have uninhibited Harry, who is powerful, fast and strong, and live with the motto “When in doubt, throttle out”. He is not delightful to live with. However, I am so grateful to have my Harry.

Over a month ago early in the morning I was walking my dogs. I have two strong males, Johnny GSD and Harry, and also sweet Rupert. We were just starting our walk with Harry and Rupert up ahead, when I heard Rupert scream. Screaming is not normal and I knew something was wrong. I called both dogs back. Harry came running with full hackles from neck to tail - I’d never even seen hackles like that on him before. There was no Rupert, which was abnormal and not a good sign. I was worried and raced up the hill. I had not gotten far when Pippa was looking across my body and barking, with her tail straight up. I looked to see what she was barking at, and it took me a moment to see it. Right next to me, camouflage in the grass and branches was a big cougar, holding her ground, crouched, ears flat, and wagging her tail at me.

I thought she had Rupert so I charged her waving weapons. I was so angry and adrenalized thinking she had my Rupert. I ran at her wanting to kill her. Time then stood still. I charged and she calmly awaited my arrival. It was incredibly demotivating to realize how powerless I was.

Here is where noble Kate stepped in and charged. My little Border Collie ran aggressively at an animal more than double her size. I think she bit the cat in the side. Even if she didn’t, she made a noble attempt as the cat swung around and swatted at her. Both the cat and Kate realized she was a food source. Kate casually said, “I tried” and came and stood next to me. As Kate left, the cat squared up on me again, staring at me. Now all my dogs, but Rupert, were with me, awaiting instructions. Not knowing if Rupert was alive or dead, I needed the cat to leave so I could find him. Plus, the cat’s focus was on me, in a crouched position ready to pounce, ten feet away. I sent Johnny in, and he charged barking. He did move the cat away momentarily, then she squared up on me and moved closer. Whenever she squared up, she was 10 feet away staring me in the eyes.

Watching Johnny fail to scare her, I panicked and sent Harry. Harry flew in, never slowed down, and never made a sound. He’d been waiting his whole life for this moment. He intended to knock her flat and she knew it, and ran away, in the direction of Rupert who screamed again. I now knew he was alive albeit terrified. Once she ran away, he ran back as fast as he could, and got into my car even faster.

Most of my client’s have Rupert type dogs - when a true threat is presented they scream and run away to hide. Some have Kates, filled with bluster, who can be a struggle to live with and control. The Johnny and Harry type dogs are of a different league, filled with courage and desire to fight. They are a disaster in most homes.

There are rumblings that the Harry and Johnny type dogs no longer have a place in society - why do we need dogs that want to fight?

This type of dog is bred for the military and police, and are bred to fight and enjoy it. Working dogs have an equally valued place in society as the Ruperts and Kates. In this scenario, this cougar wanted to fight me and my six dogs. Without Harry and Johnny the cougar would have won. I wouldn’t be writing now.

I live to hike and explore. With my boys, I know I’m safe out there. This type of dog is not for most, but that doesn’t negate their value and importance. These dogs have taken years and years to create. If we start to breed them softer so that the average dog owner can succeed with them, it would take many generations of breeding to get the hardness and desire to fight back.

Sports like IGP breed these dogs for the military and police. In competition the dog’s character and desire to fight are tested, and scored. This tiny little sport will seem odd to most, but plays a valuable societal role in keeping top genetic bloodlines available for police and military. Harry and Johnny both come from IGP bloodlines and Harry’s brother is a successful police dog in the USA. It is vital that this sport continues to test the true character so that we do not lose the dogs with courage for easier to manage false bluster.

You might ask what Pippa did throughout this encounter. She laid down on the path, scared, wanting the conflict to stop, and was scared to go walking for the next week!

I was recently training dogs in Europe and got to appreciate the challenges of training my young powerful and talented Malinois where training tools are forbidden. We did okay, only to realize that tool bans are not the final step. Sports such as IGP are now under scrutiny, and even bigger, the question of why do we need to own this type of dog. I wrote this in response to this question, and encourage everyone to start sharing stories to educate people on the value of some of our breeds.

Monique Anstee, Victoria, BC

One of the most exhausting parts of being a professional dog trainer - someone who feeds and clothes their children through their work with dogs - is the number of people who come out of the woodwork to call themselves dog trainers without doing the work to gain legitimate knowledge and experience.

Many of the clients who choose those inexperienced trainers will end up spending money again with someone like myself, who actually has been putting her blood, sweat, and tears into this passion for decades and professionally for 15 years. However, many will never trust a dog trainer again.

This happens every single day. Someone has some luck training their own dogs, watches enough YouTube, and boom. They’re taking YOUR money to gain experience training dogs. Sometimes it works out for you…a lot of the time it doesn’t.

Recently - for the second time in a short period - another local trainer was exploited by a new “trainer” who claimed that they learned the trade from that existing trainer. This was not true. This new trainer paid for the existing trainer’s services, then decided to open up shop. Just like that. They even used the legit trainer’s tagline almost word for word when advertising their services. My understanding, in this specific case, is that they are also taking on boarding and daycare services without education in those fields as well.

I’m going to be candid that I’m honestly sick and tired of it. The biggest losers here are you - the dog owner - and the dogs themselves. Obviously, those of us who have been doing this for years, bending over backwards to learn all we can and gain meaningful certification, are hurt by this too. And with each of these new trainers it becomes harder and harder for a dog owner to know how to find a real dog trainer.

The problem is many decades old. When NADOI (the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors) was formed in 1965, one of its purposes was to help dog owners answer the question of how to find an experienced, legitimate, humane dog trainer. Now, in 2023, NADOI continues to be necessary to fulfill this purpose.

There is no outside oversight in the dog training industry. No one to report these trainers to. The only ones who can make a difference are you - the consumers. But you can’t make a difference if you don’t know what to look for.

Some red flags to watch out for are:

• Lack of meaningful certification: NADOI, IACP (the cert not just the membership), or CCPDT if you prefer a force-free trainer.
  
  
• Offering service dog training cheap, quick, and without meeting or helping choose the dog that you plan to use for service dog work first. (Service dog training can’t be completed in a matter of weeks.)
  
  
• Offering guarantees that any problem can be fixed in a short amount of time and/or with little to no involvement/work from you.
  
  
• Lack of verifiable experience training a number of dogs across a number of breeds to any standard.
  
  
• Lack of education in ACTUAL animal behavior/ethology.
  
  

If I seem frustrated it’s because I am. I have fielded calls from owners for years who started with one of these would-be dog trainers and ended up in far worse shape than they started in. Trainers who had no idea how to read a dog. How to handle fearful dogs. How to understand and address aggression. I have even helped clients who have had to take other trainers to court for serious documented abuse and neglect.

Pet dog training has more unpredictable variables than any other sector of dog training. Even in a puppy class, I’m spotting future problems before they are problems and doing what I can to help mitigate those issues. Training pet dogs is not something to do haphazardly. And when it comes to service dogs? Those are someone’s lifeline. Someone’s independence. Not a quick and easy way to make money.

There are no shortcuts worth taking in this field. And there is no good reason for these people to keep taking money while using you and your dogs as their guinea pigs to learn the trade. The correct place to start is with a school, apprenticeship, or other guided education course that ends in gaining hands-on experience under the oversight of a successful professional.

Terri is a Director on the NADOI Board of Directors and runs Kentucky Canine Campus

What, exactly, is certification and why does it matter?

The term “certification” has begun to appear frequently in various forms that impact the dog training profession. There are a number of organizations that offer certifications to dog trainers, but what, exactly, does that mean?

The most important thing to remember is that not all certifications are created equal. The organization offering certification determines the criterion used to measure the ability of any given applicant. The value of the certification is reflected in the strength of the community in which it was developed.

• Certification should require knowledge and experience.
• Certification should require effort to achieve and maintain. It is a measure of skill, accumulated through practice.
• Certification should reflect a practical understanding of knowledge in theory and practice.
• Certification should allow for the expansion of an individual’s skill and experience, demonstrating the desire to continue education and self-improvement.
• Certification means meeting standards that have been established to measure specific criteria important to the profession.

Dog training certifications should reflect a body of knowledge that measures practical skills. The value of that certification is measured in the uniformity and quality of its certificants, and a desirable achievement for its applicants.

Since 1965, a NADOI certification has been the ultimate accomplishment for dog training instructors. NADOI certification is demanding. Applications are peer reviewed, and our standards are high. We are the oldest organization of its kind in the world.

This is not a profession where academics are the sole measure of professional conduct or ability. Dog training is varied and constantly evolving. There is simply no substitute for practical, hands-on experience and NADOI’s certification is the only true measure of practical skill currently available. We are instructors first and foremost, and we analyze not only how an applicant teaches dogs, but how an applicant teaches people. We seek and award an individual’s depth and breadth of knowledge, because a NADOI certified instructor is a reflection of almost 60 years of exceptional standards in ethics, conduct and skill.

We don’t dictate training philosophy, tools or techniques. Since 1965, we have certified humane, effective trainers. You can trust a NADOI Certified Dog Trainer to be competent, trustworthy and experienced.

I had an eye-opening experience the other day. At the end of a private lesson, my student handed me a few bills to pay my fee. And then she pulled another bill out of her wallet and pushed it into my hand. "I should pay you more," she said. "You saved my life!" I did some mumbling, tried to refuse the extra money, and then finally took it as she went on praising me to the heavens.

If I had blushing genes, my face would have been magenta. All my old issues about getting paid for my work surged into consciousness. Had I really earned the extra money? Was this about the quality of my work or the depths of her previous despair? Should I even get paid at all for doing something I love so much?

When I related this incident to a friend and colleague, she said: "Nonsense! This just means you're not charging enough.” (Sound effects here: the whoosh of old issues surging up to consciousness again.)

Those old issues have been a lifelong challenge for me. It's a measure of how far I've come in meeting and vanquishing the challenge that I can write this article. I know I'm not alone. Many of us in this profession struggle with these issues day after day. Women in particular. Why? As psychologists are discovering, men accept their successes as real, whereas women seem to need to keep proving themselves. For a woman, a success is not a success but a fluke, an accident. And, unfortunately for many of us, there will never be enough positive and incontrovertible proof of our competence to convince us. The disbelieving and re-proving process goes on and on. And yet, as prevalent as these feelings are, this is one of those things that nobody talks about.

The core issue, I believe, is a temporary crisis of self-esteem. The core question is: Am I worthy? If I'm not sure about my worth, how can I dare bring up this discussion? What if I'm right? What if my friend had said: "Your student was just feeling relief, after a long spell of desperation. You 're really a miserable instructor, and she'd have known that if she'd just returned to a sane and rational state of mind. In fact, she probably has figured that out by now, and I'd be surprised if she ever called you again."

Talk about nightmares!

Once I had calmed down and really heard my friend's actual words ("You're not charging enough."), I began to think about what exactly my students are paying for. Instead of focusing on how much I'm getting, I started thinking about how much they're getting. Many students are unclear as to just what they get in return for my fee. This is not surprising, as my fees cover a wide range of intangibles. That's why I've decided to break out some of the components, in simple ABC format. Next time someone asks how much I charge, I'll remember what they're getting - and reply without doubt or embarrassment.

A for Attention

I suspect my students would be astonished to discover how much time I spend thinking about them and their problems when I'm not "at work." I might be hiking in the woods, or reading a magazine, or taking a shower, and a thought comes to me about something that will help a student. For example, I was driving home from a private lesson in Santa Fe last week and suddenly realized that I'd spent the last hour working out a training plan for a new student with a dog that wouldn't enter his crate. I could have been enjoying the enchanting scenery - and maybe I was. But most of my conscious mind was focused on dogs and crates, developing the plan. When I got home, supper had to wait until I had worked out the details on my computer.

And that's just conscious attention. I don't know about you, but I often dream about my students' problems, awakening in the middle of the night with solution ideas. It happens so frequently that I keep paper and pencil handy on my night table, where I've mounted a high-intensity lamp that won't awaken my husband when I'm scribbling away at three in the morning.

B for Behavior

No matter what students bring to the class or private lesson, they are sure to leave with a better understanding of canine behavior. Just yesterday, a student with an eight-month-old Sheltie learned that when a dog yawns, he's not bored. And, along with the yawn, sweaty paw prints on the floor of the training room tell us that he's worried, stressed, or maybe just plain tired - and we need to take a break.

C for not Clock-Watching

My friend, Lee Livingood, says this succinctly: "I deliberately keep my client base small so I can give personal attention. I charge for an hour-long session, but the session is more like an hour and a half."

I spent many years teaching at a university. People working in that system believe that all subjects can be taught (and, presumably, learned) in exactly fourteen weeks, in fifty-minute "training periods," three times a week. I knew then that this was absurd. It's even more absurd when we're teaching two students at a time, the dog and the handler. And even more so when we realize that one of those students doesn't speak English!

Of course, there's a built-in trap here. I can become really sloppy and inefficient by telling myself that a private lesson or a class can take as much time as we need. But, on the other hand, I can also become a robot that stops teaching when the bell rings! Somewhere in the middle, there's a region of professionalism coupled with self-knowledge. I freely admit that things take longer when I'm teaching than they do when some of my colleagues are teaching. And this means that I need to be a selfwatcher - not a clock-watcher - to keep on track.

D for Dedication

My students unconsciously expect me to be on call, not only for the planned lessons or classes, but also for unexpected emergencies, incidental questions, idle speculation, and all sorts of administrative work such as rescheduling at their convenience. Moreover, I get neither sick days nor vacation days. When I say I'll be there - and sometimes even when I haven't said - I'm there. Even when I'm not there, I've implicitly or explicitly restricted my other activities so I'll be able to respond to their needs in a reasonable time.

E for Experience

Most of my students have had, at most, a handful of dogs in their lives. I've known, observed, interacted with, and helped to train hundreds. I bring that experience to my teaching, and it helps me to generalize (carefully!) about such things as what is "normal," what characteristics are breed-specific or age-related, what behaviors might be medical in origin, and so on.

So, for example, when a student worries that her ten-week-old puppy is "aggressive" because the puppy "bites," I can put her mind at ease about the features of normal puppy behavior. Only when her expectations are more realistic can we talk about strategies to reduce the mouthing. Or when an older dog suddenly begins to take exception to the approaches of another household dog, I can suggest that it might be time for a thorough veterinary checkup. Or when a dog suddenly starts house-soiling, after years of being house-trained, I can investigate what changes have happened in the household that might be responsible.

F for Flexibility

What I offer students is a philosophy and a set of guiding principles. Within that framework, though, what I give them is specific: methods and techniques that actually work for them and their dogs. As an operant trainer, I want the dog to drive the learning process. But, as a tactical instructor, I know that there are many ways to arrange for a dog to "offer" a Down that I can reinforce. If one way doesn't work, then I dig into my grab bag of techniques until I find one that does.

I once knew an instructor who followed an implicit philosophy of training that was never articulated (probably not even in her own mind). What she gave her students was just a cookbook of methods. If a particular method didn't seem to be working, it must be someone's fault - never the instructor or the method. Either the student was not doing it right, or the dog was somehow deficient. If this instructor didn't know how to solve a problem, she declared it insoluble. For example, she once told a student that his dog's fear of vacuum cleaners was just something he had to live with "because it was a phobia."

H for Honesty

The work I do for my clients can sometimes literally mean the life or death of a beloved pet. It's a grave responsibility, and I accept it completely and do whatever is necessary to give full value. If I don't know how to solve a problem, I say so and refer the student to someone else who can help. If I believe that the problem cannot be solved in the present circumstances, I don't hesitate to tell the student. And if those circumstances can't be changed, then I suggest rehoming the dog into a situation that will be happier for all concerned.

K for Knowledge

My students don't pay directly for all the education I bring to the job - not just my formal education but, for example, the thousands of hours I spend reading and studying videos in my own and related fields. I figure that, in a typical year, I read the equivalent of two books a week, perhaps more. Very few of my day-job friends devote this kind of personal time to their own development. And, when they take a seminar or attend a conference, their employer pays for them - but not for me.

O for Overhead

Although I may charge students for out-of-pocket costs, such as transportation, I don't charge for meals, supplies, reasonable phone calls, faxes, mailing, and so forth. All these expenses are lumped into my fees, along with my other overhead - my own office and training space, utility bills, computers, software, insurance, business cards and letterheads, and professional development.

Most instructors are paid by the hour or for a class. This method of payment tends to emphasize a single tangible component of what my students are getting - my actual, physical presence. It does not take into account all the backstage and behind-the-scenes expenses that make my teaching possible

U for Understanding

I am most definitely not a psychotherapist, but many of my students have said that I have helped them in ways that go far beyond the specifics of training a dog. I understand that, in American culture, dogs are regarded as family members - usually, as children. This means that dogs are part of the dynamic family system. So, for example, when a husband and wife are in conflict, the dog may well become the focus and lightning rod of their struggle. The family dog can serve as what psychologists call the "identified patient." In these cases, everything that happens is "the dog's fault." Or the dog becomes the victim or the tormentor of one of the spouses. It may be much easier to cloak the dog in these guises than it is for the couple to face the real issues between them.

All of us have stories like this in our case files. There's the one about the stay-at-home mom with four preschool-age children, whose husband has brought home a dog - "for the kids." Now, this mom gets to have a fifth "child" to deal with, while the husband pursues his career, works late at the office, and goes on out-of-town business trips every other week. Furthermore, the last time the husband brought home a dog, the dog bit their then-two-year-old child and they "got rid of him" (the dog, not the husband). I earned my fee by encouraging this woman to bring the new dog to my beginners' class, and by staying with her until she began to see that she really could handle the situation and that this would not be another disposable dog in their lives.

And there's the story of the woman who is a compulsive "rescuer" - and the creatures she rescues are dogs. She's just brought home her sixth "abused dog," without her husband's approval or participation, and calls me tearfully to say that her marriage is now coming apart at the seams. What should she do? I earned my fee by listening with understanding and empathy until she was able to make her own decision - one that she could live with.

What about the rest of the ABCs? I'm sure I could find something my students get from me for each letter of the alphabet. Yes, even Z! How about ZZZZZ for sleep? That's something that all of us need in order to give our students our best -and something that we're not directly paid for. Once again, I tum to my friend Lee's own words:

It took me a long time to get past the idea that I had to be “affordable” or that I shouldn’t charge too much because I wasn’t The Expert. I still sometimes struggle with these issues of value, but I’m getting there. I may not be The Expert but I’m a whole lot better than most of the others around.

I do no advertising. Everything is by vet referral or word of mouth. I’ve finally figured out that service and commitment are what I really charge for.

I offer senior discounts, discounts to people who adopt rescues, discounts for (you name it.) I find ways to justify a discount if I think cost is the only thing that is preventing someone who is truly committed from doing what they can to help their dog.

Am I going to get rich like this? Since I can’t work at this full time, am I even going to pay the mortgage? Heck, no! But I sleep well – that is, when I’m not busy worrying about my clients and their dogs, and whether or not I did everything perfectly.

And there it is again - the struggle we all face about having to prove our own worth, every day. Maybe it's time for all of us to write our own ABCs of Fee-Setting so that we can remind ourselves of what we're really being paid for.

My deep appreciation to my husband, Jerry Weinberg, who inspired this article and has helped me through my own struggles.

From the NADOI Archives, a piece written by Dani Weinberg for the May 2001 issue of Forward.

Coyotes are not dogs, but watching and studying the coyote serves to help us realize what makes the coyote so formidable is also what makes a dog a good companion for the active or competitive family.

What does this have to do with dog training?  Always, my interest is in helping dog owners choose a dog that fits their lifestyle for a long and happy relationship.  My interest as an instructor is to help in that process any way I can. This is a way to prevent dog behavior problems in the future.

I teach the “Total Dog Puzzle” which is comprised of 8 critical components to dog training and the relationship with your dog.  One of those components is health.  If a dog has a health or structural issue, it can contribute to many training issues.

It has long been known by REPUTABLE breeders that a dog’s structure is paramount to his ability to perform the task they were bred to do.  As a dog owner, whether you have a dog from a rescue or a reputable breeder, having some idea about what is proper structure (especially for each breed) can save you literally THOUSANDS of dollars in orthopedic surgeries and pain and suffering for the dog.  Choosing a dog should come from some basis in knowledge as well as our heartstrings.  We may also need to adjust our expectations of our future companion based on what he can physically do.

A simple example of this is a companion dog you might want to accompany you trail running.  A dog with a very straight shoulder and no flexion in his pastern would not be a dog that can travel long distances over rough terrain.  A dog needs a shoulder that forms a triangle from the wither to the elbow and to the point of the shoulder in front to have good flexion and the ability to absorb shock from the pounding of the trail.  The pastern also needs to have flexion for him to be able to absorb that shock from running. 

The same is true for a dog with a very straight backend, especially at the knee.  If a dog’s leg is completely straight without any bend or “turn of stifle” can experience more knee damage in extreme physical exercise. 

Of course, there are so many other components to a healthy structure which might also include how early a dog is spayed or neutered even the environment a puppy is exposed to in the whelping box. There are many studies easily available for your perusal.

A dog without excellent structure can still be a wonderful companion, but expectations of what you want the dog to do with you may need to change based on that structure affecting his athleticism. 

Who can help you with examining structure?  Your veterinarian can help, especially an orthopedic veterinarian because they see day after day which dogs need structural surgeries for knees, hips, shoulders, and elbows.  Another good resource is the breed club(s) for your breed or mix of breeds. Each breed of dog should have a published standard including diagrams, which were created to help the dog be able to perform the function he was bred for.  And yes, even a reputable and responsible breeder who pays close attention to the health of the puppies they breed can help. 

I am not here to tell you that you must have a purebred dog.  What I am trying to emphasize is that there are simple points in the structure that you can learn and look for when you choose any dog - rescue or purebred.  Knowing what functional structure is, will help your companion live a full life.  And knowing what your expectations are for your new dog is imperative when making that selection. Choosing a dog simply because of his color, coat, size, or because you feel sorry for him may make both your lives difficult or expensive depending on your expectations of what you want that dog to do for you.

Take your time and do a little research when you head forth to bring a new dog into your family.  The happiness for both of you, your family and the dog, depends on it!

Fran Jewell #1096

As dog trainers, we are usually approached by the folks that experience problems with their dogs. The dogs’ behavior has become disruptive to their lifestyle and has created a rift in their household (Husband/Wife dyads are the worst). They know they need to do something to restore harmony but are often confused as to what that might look like.

They come to us for help, often enlist our services, and then they disappear. For whatever reason, the owner has abandoned their commitment to the training, the dog, or the agreement they made with their trainer, and we are left standing, scratching our heads over what may have gone wrong.

We can certainly ask them. I have tried that and received a smattering of responses over the years that pretty much mirror my suspicions; the owner suggests they no longer have the time, circumstances have changed, they have achieved a level of skills they are happy with and don’t feel the need to continue, there was *one more incident* and for safety reasons, the dog was euthanized for behavior, and a whole host of other answers that range from plausible to unbelievable.

I have even had owners fire me because of personality conflicts. None of us are the trainer for everybody, nor should we try to be, and occasionally we are confronted with uncomfortable circumstances where temperaments clash and the relationship is not a healthy one. It happens, as much as we don’t want to admit it.

If we analyze these abandonments clinically, we are often able to tease out what went wrong and how to not repeat it, whether it’s facilitated by the perception of a change in quality of service, accessibility, personality conflict, or just a lack of initiative.

If you follow marketing strategies at all, the number one reason people abandon a company is because of the perception of poor service.

It’s a hard pill to swallow, but on the main, people judge their service providers through the same lens as any other event where a financial transaction has occurred. What differs is what they perceive as value. Is it the service itself? The provider? How were they made to feel? Was the encounter worth it?

Their time is money also, and they need to feel that they are getting their money’s worth. The problem hinges on their understanding of the services we provide and how they differ than the services rendered by their physician, mechanic, electrician, or lawyer.

The admix of professions and trades is deliberate. We are all professionals, and we all render services under a contractual obligation that has been pre-determined by the consumer and the provider.

But, unlike other services, the pet industry services are filtered through a human perspective that struggles with the concept that animals are not appliances, nor are they little people in fur suits.

Animals, like appliances, are completely incapable of understanding our human motives and emotional attachments. Not because they are without cognition, on the contrary, but because of it. They have their own social hierarchy and predictable behaviors. We violate their social spheres, hovering within the orbit of our distinct social strata like a Venn Diagram and expect them to “get” us. There are bound to be misunderstandings…

We must tread carefully when dealing with the one thing that bonds humans to other humans more closely than the tenets of marriage, child-rearing, religion, or politics. If you doubt it, try this at the next party you attend. Tell someone you train dogs for a living. You’ll have folks standing in line to talk to you.

I guarantee that we as trainers have all heard at least one owner exclaim “[I] have owned dogs all my life!” “Have you worked with [breed], before?” And most recently for me “I think I know my dog better than you!” I bet 43 years and counting, ya don’t… but I’m not going to humiliate you by saying that… out loud, anyway.

The fact remains that I feed more dogs breakfast than most people own in a human lifetime. That still won’t stop folks from believing that their anecdotal experience of a ‘lifetime’ with 4 or 5 dogs confers all knowledge of all things dog.

The analytical mind of any seasoned professional trainer automatically launches into rationalizing that if they knew so much, why are they calling a pro?

They call because it is their open admission of failure that brought them to us, even if our initial take is one of jaded suspicion about how this conversation may go, based on our own experiences.

It’s only fair to give them an attentive ear, and a moment of our time to hear them out.

It is still within our scope to decline services if we feel the taint of resistance from the inquiry. We have all created that mental shorthand, that intuitiveness that triggers what words we choose, and how carefully we say them.

Even if we choose to decline services- too busy, conflicting schedule, not an issue you are comfortable with, not a service you provide; it is still within our power to supply them with our answers in a more thoughtful, less abrasive way.

Our understanding of dogs doesn’t exonerate us from our responsibility to express sympathy for the owner. They called us. Talking down to a prospective client with technical jargon or talking over a client with the hithertos and wherefores of your training plan is punching down.

We must accord our clients the respect they are entitled to for paying us with their hard-won cash and the non-renewable resource of their time.

Like our livelihoods depended on it.

Linda Kaim #1152
lionheartk9.com

Is training really about all the equipment or a single method? Or is training about using the sound principles of operant and classical conditioning? How important is timing? Surely when adapting training to a person with limited physical or mental dexterity and timing, we as trainers must be creative. Are treats the only primary reinforcer and clicks the only marker that constitutes training? Are leash corrections or specific collars the only punisher?

Trainers who train service dogs or instruct others in how to train their own service dogs need to explore their own thinking on these concepts. We know dogs are amazing at adapting to their environment. If not, they would not have survived and thrived as our companions all these years. Yet trainers seem to get stuck on the mechanics of their method of choice. How many trainers have actually asked their disabled clients what they are capable of doing and adapting that information into their training?

Surely a trainer who has learned only one way to train does not have the experience to adapt training unless they have a good understanding of learning theory and are willing to think outside their training box.

Another issue in adapting training involves reinforcers and punishers. I so often hear “my dog isn’t food motivated” or “doesn’t really like treats”. Yet trainers give all sorts of advice about how to get the dog more food motivated rather than figuring out what that individual dog actually considers a reward/reinforcer. Why should we humans dictate to the dogs we train what will be their reward? The other side of that equation is our concept of what is a punisher. If a punisher is anything that decreases the likelihood of a behavior occurring, anything can be a punisher to the dog. My golden considers her Easy Walk harness a punisher. It definitely decreases her pulling which fits the scientific definition. But if you see her body language when I go to put it on it is also an aversive. Once the harness is on her body language changes and she is ready for a walk. So is it the harness itself or the fact that I bend over her to put it on or when she sees the harness is she thinking “darn now I can’t pull or run free, what fun is that”. I really don’t know, but to my dog the wonderful, humane, Easy Walk Harness is both a punisher and an aversive. I have seen service dogs respond the same way to their vests being put on. Their vests have come to predict something that they don’t like.

When looking at equipment to use with a client’s dog, the trainer must be able to demonstrate how to use the equipment and the client must be able to easily use the equipment. I had a client who was paralyzed on her right side after a stroke. I wanted to use a head halter on the dog. She was sure she could not put it on with just one hand. So I put my corresponding hand behind my back and rather easily put the head halter on the dog. Needless to say she was impressed and willing to try.

Another client did not have any finger dexterity to attach leashes to collars. So we used limited slip martingales. She could hold the collar open by slipping her hands into the collar. I then taught the dog to push its head through the opening. We had collars attached to different leashes or long lines and she was able to successfully let her dog out to air as well as getting the dog ready for an outing.

A trainer needs to sit down with their client and the client’s potential service dog and map out a training plan. The plan must take into account the client’s abilities and the tasks the dog needs to learn to assist the disabled client with their disability. The plan must outline the best way for the client to be able to teach basic obedience, public access skills and tasks. Working with the client’s knowledge of their dog and the trainers experience, a list of reinforcers and how those reinforcers can be delivered must be established.

Once training begins, the plan must continually be reevaluated to see if it is working, not only for the trainer but for the client and the dog.

©2022 Jeanne Hampli
Jeane is Chairman of the NADOI Handlers With Disabilities Committee

My thoughts about this came quickly.  What happens in an emergency situation where you need the dog to “COME” because there is a moose in the trail?  Do I stop and ask myself, “How is my dog’s state of mind?” before I tell him to “come”? 

The new trend is “force free and intimidation free” training.  In another incident, I saw an advertisement for only positive gun dog training.  I just can’t imagine how one can use only positive reinforcement with a dog whose hunt drive is stronger than his toy or food drive.  Maybe I am not being creative enough.     

A dog’s life is not dependent upon whether he feels like doing something.  This would be the same as a spoiled child that decides to spit on someone’s food in a restaurant!!  (This indeed, DID happen to me with a 6 year old boy whose parents never even apologized!).  I guess he felt like spitting but there were no consequences for his actions.  When this boy grows up, his life is not going to be fun when he decides to commit some crime because he feels like it!

 While I don’t encourage folks to treat their dogs like their babies, there are many similarities to child rearing.  When we fail to provide some sort of consequence for unacceptable behavior, we are not giving the dog the entire picture.  In real life, there are consequences.  If a dog bites a porcupine, he gets quills in his snout.  If a dog offends another dog, the other dog will respond with a consequence – a growl or a raised lip, or more.

The consequence depends entirely on the dog and if it makes sense to him as a dog.  While I cannot sit here and give a list of consequences for every incident, I can say that consequences should be quick, confident, and FAIR, and in line with the infraction.  Just like in our lives, jail sentences strive to reflect the severity of the crime. 

The day of brutal consequences is over. But, the extreme of no consequences has infiltrated to such a point that now many dogs abuse their owners.  Yes, DOGS CAN ABUSE THEIR OWNERS!  A dog with no manners can pull someone over and hurt them seriously.  I had a friend whose 110 pound dog pulled her over and BROKE HER FACE!  Yes, she had to have several reconstructive surgeries.  However, she and her husband had been told they could only use a flat collar or a harness on Brutus AND told they should never say “no” or raise their voice.   If they did, it would be cruel to the dog.  Truly, who was cruel to whom in this scenario?

In all things there is a time and a place. Our job is to be reasonable, fair and “balanced”.  It sure can be hard if you don’t have experience.  It is imperative that we know what is acceptable for dogs to do, and we need to know what is effective to help the dog learn the difference between acceptable and unacceptable behaviors.

Christmas is almost here! Have you decided what your family can give your furry friend as a seasonal gift?

Before addressing individual items that could bring a happy gleam to your pet’s eyes, let’s discuss basic safety around the Christmas tree and table:

Many dogs lose their housetraining when an evergreen tree suddenly appears in the home. What is the dog thinking, we ponder … the human has spent weeks, even months, teaching the pup to use the Great Outdoors as a bathroom facility, and here comes that very same human and brings into the living room – of all things! – an aromatic, living tree!

To avoid holiday confusion and stress on your dog, it is even more important to take your dog outside to toilet on a regular schedule, especially if you have friends and family visiting or you are busy with cooking and gift-wrapping. A stressed dog is more likely to have a tummy upset. Being aware of your dog’s need to go outside will enable you, too, to take short and relaxing breaks from seasonal activities.

When wrapping gifts please remember to leave all food-related items in a place inaccessible to your pet’s paws and teeth. This includes Aunt Agatha’s Fruitcake! In addition, ribbons, foil wrap, and sticky-tape are all dangerous items for your dog to chew upon or swallow. The Christmas tree should be firmly anchored to heavy furniture or walls so that it cannot be pulled over by an enthusiastic dog pulling on branches or ornaments. Using plastic ornaments sprayed with an unpleasant-tasting agent such as Bitter Apple (available at pet supply stores) on the lower branches will discourage your dog from using the tree as a chew item.

When cooking holiday goodies, please consider adhering closely to your dog’s regular diet. Items such as chocolate, onions, raisins, and macadamia nuts are toxic to dogs. If you wish to reward your dog for good behavior around the Christmas tree, add a little lean turkey meat to your dog’s food dish or use some lean chopped ham as training treats! Xylitol is a sugar substitute that is lethal to dogs, so keep that in mind when doing holiday baking.

Animals are often lost during the holidays due to visitors opening doors without concern of escaping pets. To make sure your pets are free from harm, tape a note to the door to notify visitors of dogs in the home. Keep all animals (cats, too!) safely crated or contained behind locked doors. Bring your pets out one at a time on-leash so that you have control over your pet’s activities. Jumping up on Grandma or tripping up little Tommy will not foster the holiday spirit, and your dog or one of your visitors could be injured.

There are wonderful interactive toys you can let your pup joyfully unwrap on Christmas Eve. For example, consider the Kong Wobbler, or slow feeder bowls. Simply fill these with your dog's dry food, and let your furry friend do all the work! As your dog moves the toy around, pieces of kibble fall out and reward your dog for moving the toy ... your dog gets physical and mental exercise just by eating its meal!

If deciding on a chew bone, it is advisable to get one that is bigger than your dog's mouth can hold. This ensures that your dog will use its back teeth to chew and thus scrape its rear teeth clean. Real bones specifically for dogs are generally better tolerated than rawhides. Rawhides are hazardous because the swallowed chunks can expand within the dog's intestines and cause blockages.

Dressing your pet up in fun, fashionable clothes can have an unexpected benefit. When people meeting your pet say "Aw! How cute your dog looks!" Your dog will get effective socialization by having strangers be delighted to meet your pet. Be sure to check that the doggy duds are comfortable and do not restrict your dog’s breathing, sight, or movement.

The very best holiday gift you can give to your pet is your time. Training sessions of two to three minutes daily as a New Year’s resolution will reap years of benefit to your dog as well as to you and your family!

I well remember that after my first few years in obedience and after having become rather confident about my new found “expertise” I was admonished by one of the old-timers that “when it comes to dogs we never cease to learn.” The longer I am in obedience, the more I have come to appreciate that observation.

There is one further observation which should be made: when I look at the telephone directory or the classified section of the local papers and see the many different obedience classes being offered by different organizations and individuals, I have often wondered how a member of the public who wants to enroll his dog in an obedience class can tell just where he will get quality instructions. The thought may not cross his mind but surely the classes offered will not all be of the same quality. NADOI on the other hand believes that membership in the association constitutes an assurance to the public of a minimum standard of experience and quality instructions.

©1971 J.J. Volhard

The person usually wants to train the dogs forgetting that service dog training includes the training of the team or, even more difficult, the training of a disabled person who is then trying to train their own dog. Training the right dog is easy compared to training the human part of the team. When we were working on the Delta Society Service Dog Education System, which unfortunately has been shelved, we spent a great deal of time discussing the prerequisites for admission into the program. These included educational background as well as previous experience with both dogs and persons with a disability. If a person expresses interest in service dog training I would encourage them to volunteer at a rehabilitation unit at a local hospital. In order to train a service dog one must understand the many facets of disability. A service animal is defined in the Department of Justice Business brief as:

“… dog that are individually trained to perform tasks for people with disabilities such as guiding people who are blind, alerting people who are deaf, pulling wheelchairs, alerting and protecting a person who is having a seizure, or performing other special tasks.”

As a service dog trainer one must be knowledgeable of each client’s particular disability. Is the disability static or progressive? What are the client’s strengths and weaknesses? What tasks can a dog safely be taught to assist with the disability? What other assistive devices are available to the client? How will a client’s stamina related to their disability affect training? Service dog training is not an area that can be dabbled in. Once a dog is trained and placed with a disable client you must be willing to commit to follow up for the life of the team. Training a service dog is expensive and the trainer is seldom paid sufficiently for the work.

So what does it cost to train and place a service dog? This is hard to quantify. Most service dogs are trained by non-profit organizations. This is because most disabled people can not afford the cost of a service dog on their own. If you choose to train privately can you find clients who are willing to pay $10,000 to $15,000 for a fully trained service dog? Are you willing to maintain a ten-year commitment to provide lifetime follow-up and yearly re-testing? Here is a simplified budget based on Assistance Dog International's minimum standards.

Service Dog Budget

One of the costs that trainers seldom factor in is the disruption of their normal business while searching for the right dog and the time out of office during team training. Absorbing the costs for dogs that don’t make it can put a trainer into the red very quickly. At the present time there is no regulation, certification or licensing of service dog trainers. While licensing of trainers is always a hot topic this is one area of dog training where the life, health, and safety of a client is truly in the hands of the trainer. A poorly trained dog that pulls over a wheel chair injuring their partner or a fearful dog that runs into traffic when their owner has a seizure is not the same thing as a dog that leaves a basic obedience class untrained. There is no place in the service dog industry for ill prepared trainers. Learning to train service dogs correctly requires education and mentoring. You can check with local service dog programs to volunteer or apprentice if they have such a program. Over the past twenty years the education and role of the “Service Dog Trainer” has changed. It is no longer a “see one, do one, teach one hobby but rather a professional career requiring time, education, financial outlay, and commitment to the clients, their dogs and ones own continuing professional development.

Jeanne Hampl © 2016

Jeanne is Chairman of our Handlers with Disabilities Committee.

Dog Training Classes

What makes my classes unique?

1. At the first class meeting, “congratulate” the owners for enrolling in your class. This is the first step for owners in building a relationship with their dogs; trainers need to nourish that relationship with the owners/dogs they teach.
2. Learn the names of dogs as quickly as possible (in my case, I “meet and greet” each dog by name beginning on week 2, and throughout all subsequent classes). Owners like to hear their dog’s name.
3. Establish a protocol (routine) used at the beginning of each class that sets the stage for learning (e.g., warm-up exercise to get dog’s attention; “watch me;” “R & R,” repetition and review from previous week; equipment check, “doggie roll call,” etc.)
4. Say something positive to each owner about his/her dog at least once during each class period. Ideally, this should be positive feedback about an exercise; the reality is sometimes, ‘I like your dog’s expression,’ may be the best you can muster.  Remember this:  when you praise the dog, you are praising the owner, too!
5. Each owner has a different learning style preference (or combination of styles): auditory, visual, kinesthetic.  Use all three learning styles in every exercise you teach.
6. Maintain a calm, relaxed, controlled “energy” in your classes. This will rapidly spread to owners and dogs, setting the stage for learning.  And, know and respond when the energy in the room is becoming negative.  Smile!
7. Be open and always check for understanding. Embrace problem solving.  Invite owners to ask questions within your classes.  Oftentimes, an individual’s question is shared by other owners in the class.  If this gets to be too much, invite the owner to consult with you individually. 
8. Encourage owners to figure out their dog’s learning threshold. What is the absolute maximum number of repetitions your dog can handle before ‘folding?’  Each dog’s threshold number is different and once the threshold is determined, owners need to honor that number.
9. Teach owners to always end each exercise on a positive. As I often say in class, “finish on a good one.”
10. At the end of each class, praise your students AND “thank” them for coming.

Ellen Drewes-Stoen, NADOI #920, SPOT#7345, CGC 100059

Ellen spent 40 years as a college professor in education methods and student teacher supervision in the public schools, and is always excited to implement educational research into teaching dog classes. She is an Instructor at Good Dog Center in Decorah, Iowa.

]]> Thu, 7 Oct 2021 02:46:56 GMT https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=379664 https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=379664

“Remember when you were in school and you had to cram hundreds of pages of textbook material into your head before every big test? If you were like most students, you and your friends probably developed all kinds of tactics to make the grade. Maybe you made flashcards, or reviewed recordings of your professors’ lectures, or came up with intricate mnemonic devices to memorize the material at hand. You may have argued with your classmates about which method was best—but the truth is that, when it comes to learning, one size does not fit all”

https://blog.prezi.com/the-four-different-types-of-learners-and-what-they-mean-to-your-presentations-infograph

 

TYPES OF LEARNERS

Research studies illustrate a number of models that identify and describe the different ways that people learn best. Having a basic knowledge of these styles and their implications for learning can help dog training instructors better meet the individual needs of their students/ dog owners.

One popular theory identifies four primary types of learners: visual, auditory, reading/writing, and kinesthetic, or the VARK model. Each learning style responds best to different methods of teaching. When teaching dog training classes, it’s best to know how to engage each of the four learning styles. The following table depicts the four learning styles, a brief definition, and examples specific to dog training that are appropriate considerations for instructors. To help instructors better understand the table, it should be noted that there are vocabulary terms highlighted within the “strategies” column. These terms and corresponding definitions can be found in the “techniques” portion of this document.

 

VARK MODEL FOR DOG TRAINING INSTRUCTORS

 

LEARNER STYLES	DEFINITION	STRATEGIES
Visual	Prefer to see info and visualize relationship between ideas.	Provide demonstrations for each exercise. Use a “demo dog.” Provide a training manual that contains graphics of important content. Use pinpointing to reinforce cues. Spread out dog/handler teams & be sure all can see when you are demonstrating.
Auditory	Prefer to hear info rather than read or see it displayed visually.	Project voice as necessary to be heard by all, wait for quiet (dogs, included). If owner has a hearing impairment, stand next to him/her when speaking. Auditory learners like to recite info out loud to remember it. Give them a chance to repeat info back by using checking for understanding & calling for answers. Use cues to reinforce various exercises.
Reading/Writing	Learn best when reading/writing. Interacting with text is more powerful than hearing or seeing.	Provide a training manual that contains important info as well as an outline of each lesson’s content. Encourage dog owners to take notes. Pose reflection questions—checking for understanding at the end of each lesson & allow space for written responses. Encourage dog owners to read & refer to the manual often.
Kinesthetic	Hands-on, kinesthetic learners. Learn best by doing. These learners are often “over-achievers.”	A learner with a visual impairment requires hands-on assistance for some exercises. Kinesthetic learners benefit greatly from demonstrations & are usually eager & will often begin training before you finish your instructions; remind the class, “wait until I say go” (protocol). Switch it up; that is, alternate between stationary & dynamic (moving) exercises (dogs benefit, too). Kinesthetic learners can also be encouraged to write things down. Remind owners to honor dog’s threshold, “less is more,” “finish on a good one” (protocol).

 

TEACHING TECHNIQUES

I have been involved in the teaching profession for over 40 years, with expertise in teaching methods courses for pre-service physical education teachers. Twenty-five of those years saw me drawn to an avocation. My passion for dogs soon led to exhibiting dogs, first in performance, and then in conformation. For a short while, I did both and managed to maintain my sanity. During that time of “immersion into the dog world,” teaching training classes became a natural fit.

Throughout these four decades, I have discovered that education is constantly dynamic and evolving. Similarly, dog training research has evolved. Therefore, it should go without saying that techniques used by instructors of dog training classes need to evolve. “Learning to teach—and continuing to teach well—is a lifelong endeavor” (Graham, PhD, AMTP). Blending two of my favorite passions: teaching pre-service teachers how to teach AND teaching dog training classes has now developed into what I prefer to call: “the art of teaching dog training classes.” Since I am a self-professed “pedagogy junkie,” the time has come for me to share what I have learned over the years so that, hopefully, other dog training instructors can benefit.

Finally, it should be noted that the selected vocabulary of teaching techniques presented here follow the ideas put forth years ago by the American Master Teacher Program (AMTP) created by George Graham, PhD.  It was teaching about these techniques through the years that sparked the idea that many of the AMTP terms can be directly applied by instructors of dog training classes; hence, the art of teaching dog training classes was born! Now, I am quite intrigued about this idea and continue to explore its possibilities.

The table that follows identifies selected AMTP teaching techniques that I have used successfully in the dog training classes that I teach. Further, brief definitions and a few examples are included. Instructors are encouraged to study these definitions and make appropriate applications to the content within the courses they teach.

 

VOCABULARY OF EFFECTIVE TEACHING TECHNIQUES

Techniques, Definitions & Examples for Dog Training Classes

TEACHING TECHNIQUE	DEFINITION	EXAMPLES
PROTOCOLS	Pre-determined routines, expectations that allow classes to function efficiently. Start & stop cues.	Where to store personal items, jackets, etc. Cell phones off. Find your spot, no dog socialization. Taking roll. “Meet & greet” each dog at start of class. “When I say go….” “Finish on a good one.” Announcements, reminders.
BACK-TO-THE-WALL	Be able to see all dog-handler teams all the time. SAFETY! Be ready to “run interference” between 2 dogs when necessary. Stay on the perimeter as dog-hander teams are training. This enhances “with-it-ness.”	After providing instructions & dog-handler teams are working, move about the room in circular fashion; offer 1:1 assistance as needed. At the same time, keep remainder of class in your vision.
SET INDUCTION	Attempting to provide dog-handler teams with an understanding or purpose of lesson. This can provoke interest and motivation.	Spend a few minutes providing an overview of lesson. What is the purpose?
SCAFFOLDING	Connect the lesson with past OR future experiences or training that dog-handler teams have had/will have. Provide a cognitive link with past & future.	When presenting exercises, explain purpose & connect its practicality. This helps dog-handler teams understand the purpose of various exercises.
DEMONSTRATIONS	Many owners are visual learners & demos are enormously valuable. Concern for whole vs. part method in teaching an exercise. Concern for tempo (speed) of exercise.	Have a “demo dog.” Sometimes an advanced dog is helpful; sometimes using an owner’s dog let’s others know that you empathize with their struggles. Showing the “whole” exercise (“big picture”) is helpful. Some exercises need to be broken down into “parts” & each part practiced separately.(e.g., coming when called; sit-stay/down-stay progressions). Speed relates to timing associated with rewards; slow-normal-fast paces).
PINPOINTING	Combined with a demonstration to help owners more easily understand or focus on parts of complex exercises, visualize cues, or discover creative solutions to problems.	Select a skilled dog-handler team to demonstrate an exercise while identifying a critical aspect of the exercise for others to watch. This critical aspect can be accompanied by a cue.“Watch (name) do….” “Look at (name) while…”
CHECKING FOR UNDERSTANDING	From time to time, check to see that owners really understand what is being taught. Quick test of owner’s (and sometimes dog’s) understanding of what is expected.	Pose a question or statement & quickly scan the room to see that owners understand. “Show me….” “How many dogs do you have at the end of your leash?” (Answer=1; therefore, 1 command). Q & A at the end of a lesson to check for understanding of key points. This tells instructor if something needs to be re-taught.
TEACHING BY INVITATION	If all dogs were at the same skill level, our job as instructors would be much easier. From time to time, provide dog-owner teams with a choice of exercises, thereby, allowing for individual differences. Owners are “invited” to decide which task is best for suited for their dog.	Sit-stays: “Remain at your dog’s side,” or “Take 2 steps out in front of your dog.” Come when called: “Perform 3 come-fores or 2 recalls.” “Wait:” “Count down from 10, 6 or 3, return to your dog.”
INTRATASK VARIATION	Based upon observation of dog-owner teams, the instructor decides when exercises will be made harder for some teams & easier for others. Modifying an exercise or its parts.	Come when called: “When your dog comes to you, the dog needs to sit” (harder) or “Change the intonation in your voice to a higher pitch so your dog comes more happily” (easier).
TASKS (EXTENSIONS)	Providing dog-owner teams with a series of tasks presented in a logical progression. Breaking down an exercise into its subsequent parts, progressing from simple to more complex. Progressions are based upon the instructor’s knowledge of the developmental level of dogs in class (sometimes, owners).	Coming When Called: ”Relay races” Come-fore Recall at end of leash Long-line recall Motivated recall Recall with distractions Recall with front sit
CUES (REFINEMENTS)	Providing cues helps owners learn exercises more quickly & correctly. If using multiple cues, it’s best to focus on one cue at a time. Reminder words or phrases to assist owners in remembering. Cues are short-cuts to learning.	Walking on a loose lead: “Step out onto left foot while saying ‘let’s go’…’let’s’ & ‘left” start with ‘L’.” “Give your lead a ‘pop,’ not a ‘pull’.” Down: use the intonation in your voice, “dowwwwn” to assist.
CHALLENGES (APPLYING)	A way to motivate and help owners maintain interest in training. Placing an exercise into a “new” setting, or making an application.	Sit/Down-Stays: Increase time. Increase distance. T rain with distractions. Train outdoors. Socialization: “provide 3 different experiences for your dog this week” (children, other animals, veterinarian, elderly, indoor/outdoor surfaces & stairs, downtown, playground, etc.). Assignments: verbally stated and written in manual.
TEACHER FEEDBACK	Letting owners know how their dog is doing. Effective feedback has 4 characteristics. Beneficial feedback is: specific (versus general) congruent (aligns with) simple positive (or neutral, not negative).	“I like your dog’s quick response to the ‘sit’”— (not “good job”). “I like how your dog is in the settle position for the down”--(not “good down”). “Wow—what a nice ‘J’ loose lead!”— (not “nice walking”). “YES, you remembered to step out on your left foot when walking”—(not “don’t step forward like that!”). Use“lower your voice & be firm” vs. “Don’t yell at your dog.” Each lesson, make it a goal to offer each owner specific feedback that meets the criteria.
CLOSURE	One of the most important times within a lesson is the ending of a training session. Keep it positive, upbeat.	Provide a brief wrap-up of important points or exercises within lesson. Sometimes closure can be a time to check for understanding, Q & A. Closure can provide focus for future lessons (“coming attractions”). Thank owners for coming!

 

APPLICATION CHALLENGES

 

Q: If I want to include some of these teaching techniques into the dog training classes I teach, how/where do I begin?

A: Try one or more of the following challenges.

Challenge #1:  Critique each lesson you teach and determine what techniques you already use. Then, compare the content of your lesson with the new teacher techniques you have learned and determine HOW you can improve your content. Establish small goals by incorporating one new technique within each lesson; after a few repetitions, the techniques will become part of your repertoire.

Challenge #2: One quick and beneficial exercise is to focus on developing the content for each lesson you teach. Create an outline that contains all the main training exercises you teach. For each exercise, conduct a critical analysis that involves three items:

• Tasks (Extensions)—Select an exercise that contains a series of tasks and make sure they are in a logical progression. Do the tasks progress from simple to complex?
• Cues (Refinements)—For each of the tasks you identified for an exercise, if appropriate, identify any helpful cues, or shortcuts, that would facilitate learning. Are these key words, “secrets,” or short phrases?
• Applying (Challenges)—Does each lesson you teach contain at least one challenge for the dog owners?

Challenge #3: Once you have mastered the content of a lesson and feel that you have successfully implemented teaching techniques that are enhancing learning, conducting a time analysis can reveal helpful information. A time analysis involves a critical examination of HOW much time your dog-owner teams are actually engaged within lesson segments that involve:

• ACTIVITY TIME—The amount of time that the majority (over half) of dog-owner teams spend actually participating in the lesson.
• INSTRUCTION TIME—The amount of time that the majority (over half) of dog-owner teams spend listening to explanations and/or watching demonstrations.
• MANAGEMENT TIME—The amount of time that the majority (over half) of dog-owner teams spend getting into groups, moving to stations, helping with equipment, transitioning, or getting organized. This time also involves taking attendance, filling out registration forms, etc.
• WAIT TIME—The amount of time that the majority (over half) of dog-owner teams spend waiting to take a turn, are off-task, or not involved in any of the other types of time.

Have an assistant or friend use a stopwatch and chart each segment of the lesson. START the stopwatch when the majority of dog-owner teams are engaged (or not) in a type of time, and STOP when that segment ends.

When lesson is completed, critically classify each segment of the lesson as: ACTIVITY TIME, INSTRUCTION TIME, MANAGEMENT TIME, or WAIT TIME. Then, record and add the number of minutes spent for each segment. Then, ADD THE MINUTES for each section ÷ TOTAL MINUTES in the lesson. These numbers reflect the percentages of time you spent within your lesson for each segment type. What’s the point? Logically, your teaching should reflect that most of your class time is spent with ACTIVITY, then INSTRUCTION, followed by MANAGEMENT, with little to no WAIT time.

 

 

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Ellen Drewes-Stoen, NADOI #920, SPOT#7345, CGC 100059

Ellen spent 40 years as a college professor in education methods and student teacher supervision in the public schools, and is always excited to implement educational research into teaching dog classes. She is an Instructor at Good Dog Center in Decorah, Iowa.

]]> Thu, 7 Oct 2021 03:02:39 GMT https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=421826 https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=421826 By Jeanne Hampl #962 I have given up counting the number of phone calls I get asking how someone can get their dog "certified" as a service dog. Seldom do I receive calls asking how to choose an appropriate dog or how to train the dog in question. When I ask the callers what training the dog they want "certified” has, the answer is usually none. They have not attended obedience classes. They have not even read a book on training. When I ask about task-training they usually respond, "well, I just want the dog to come places with me." Interestingly, these callers do have a disability but have no concept of the training necessary for public access work and no idea that service dogs must be task-trained. So where does a person training a potential service dog begin? I recommend all service dog candidates from puppy to adults attend dog training classes. They should begin with either a puppy or beginner class and continue on until they pass the AKC Canine Good Citizenship Test (CGC). Classes are the first milestone. Successful completion of the CGC is the second. A dog that cannot pass a CGC has no business being out in places of public accommodation. Once a dog is sufficiently trained to pass a CGC, the trainer should download a copy of The Assistance Dogs International’s Public Access Test (PAT). The trainer then begins to practice the individual test items, such as appropriate loading and unloading of a dog from a vehicle and the dog’s ability to ignore food on the floor. The third milestone is successful completion of the Public Access Test. While training the dog in public access skills, the trainer/handler needs to determine what actual tasks the dog needs to be able to perform to assist the person with a disability. There is an excellent disability and task list on the website of The International Association of Assistance Dog Partners (www.iaadp.org).
• Traditional Service Dog Tasks
• Psychiatric Service Dog Tasks
A dog that is not task trained is not a service dog even if its owner is a person with a disability. Federal law clearly states:

“Service Animals are animals that are individually trained to perform tasks for people with disabilities-such as guiding people who are blind, alerting people who are deaf, pulling wheelchairs, alerting and protecting a person who is having a seizure, or performing other special tasks.”

The fourth milestone is reliably performing tasks both at home and in public. Program-trained dogs and dogs tested by some local assistance dog clubs must perform tasks as part of their Public Access Test. The handler chooses the tasks. Assistance Dogs International requires a minimum of three tasks in their standards for service dog training. The question, “How do I get my dog certified?” is just the tip of the iceberg. Federal law does not require certification of service dogs. It does require that a service dog be task trained and under the control of its handler and not a direct threat to the health or safety of others.

 

©2008 Jeanne Hampl

Jeanne is chair of our Handlers with Disabilities Committee


]]> Wed, 12 Jan 2022 06:21:09 GMT https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=379665 https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=379665 Consider this model…..

 

FORMULA FOR EFFECTIVE DOG TRAINING INSTRUCTORS

Knowledge + Transfer Skills = Enrichment



Dog training is really about knowledge transfer, or “dog owner education.”  Effective instructors need to possess an in-depth knowledge of various dog-related topics.  They ALSO need to be able to educate owners (transfer skills) and effectively share their knowledge.  Effective transfer occurs when instructors possess inherent teaching dispositions AND demonstrate appropriate teaching pedagogies.  Effectively combining one’s knowledge with the ability to demonstrate transfer skills sets the stage for enrichment, or learning; aren’t these the goals of all dog training instructors?

 

CHARACTERISTICS & DISPOSITIONS SHARED BY EFFECTIVE DOG TRAINING INSTRUCTORS

Disposition: 

• Noun.  A person’s inherent qualities of mind and character.
• Synonyms:  temperament, nature, character, constitution, make-up, mentality.

PATIENCE—Some people/owners encountered in classes are slow to understand directions.  People and dogs learn at different rates. 

SENSE OF HUMOR—Keep classes light-hearted; don’t show frustration. Sometimes, the dog’s behavior is just “off.” 

CREATIVITY—Be able to adjust tasks for owners and dogs (intratask variation) in order for them to be successful.  Good instructors think on their feet.  Set the stage so both owners and dogs can be successful.

FLEXIBILITY—Learn to pick your battles.  If owner insists on walking the dog on the right (and it can be done safely), let him/her do so.  If owner insists on walking the dog with an “overly ordained bling of a harness” (and it’s not harming the dog or others), let him/her do so.  Don’t sweat the small stuff.

CONFIDENCE—Have faith in your abilities.  Share this faith with others.

HUMILITY—“Always stay humble and kind.”  Don’t take on dogs or owners that are “over your head” (e.g., aggression).  Teach within your abilities.  Make referrals when necessary.

OPEN MIND—As an instructor, you can learn from everyone:  both owners and dogs.  Take advanced classes from other trainers.  Develop a “cross-over” mindset.

DIPLOMACY & ABILITY TO COMMUNICATE—Instructors need to be nonjudgmental and impartial.  Most dog behavioral issues are caused by people.  Be careful of words used and maintain a positive mindset.  Use tact and know when to talk to owner one-on-one. 

TOLERANCE FOR BEING DIRTY, BRUISED, STAMINA—If you can’t handle slobber, dog hair, stinky dogs, having clothes “autographed;” or, the occasional bruise or toenail scratch, perhaps you are in the wrong profession.  Physical stamina and smiles required.

DESIRE TO HELP PEOPLE—Instructors must possess an inherent desire to help/teach people and remediate dogs.  Instructors have to sincerely care about the feelings and emotions of owners and dogs.  Owners know if you have this.

PASSION/LOVE FOR DOGS—Instructors need to be open to different breeds, “designer dogs” included.  This can be tough.  Dogs know if you don’t like them.

POSITIVE ATTITUDE/MIND SET/MINDFULNESS—Instructors (owners, too) need to be upbeat, enthusiastic, welcoming.  “Be” where your feet are.  Always praise and thank owners for coming.

SENSE OF CALMNESS—Display a relaxed, unhurried nature.  Move about the room calmly and anticipate when it’s necessary to step in between (interrupt) a stare down between two dogs.  “Spread” this calmness to owners.

ABILITY TO PROBLEM SOLVE—Embrace problem solving as an opportunity to learn.  Don’t pretend to have all solutions for all problems for all dogs.  Oftentimes, an owner simply has a “timing” problem; that is, rewards are not quick enough to “mark” desired behavior resulting in the owner inadvertently rewarding an inappropriate behavior.  This inconsistency confuses the dog and can cause continuous problems for the dog and owner in learning new exercises.  Finally, it’s okay to say, “That’s a great question.  I don’t have the immediate solution, but I will find out!”

OTHERS???

Reflection Questions:

• What dispositional characteristics do I possess that enhance my teaching?
• What characteristics can I improve upon?
• What characteristics can I develop that will enhance my teaching?

 

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Ellen Drewes-Stoen, NADOI #920, SPOT#7345, CGC 100059

Ellen spent 40 years as a college professor in education methods and student teacher supervision in the public schools, and is always excited to implement educational research into teaching dog classes. She is an Instructor at Good Dog Center in Decorah, Iowa.


]]> Thu, 7 Oct 2021 03:29:34 GMT https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=382504 https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=382504 On December 2, 2020 the U.S. Department of Transportation announced its revision of the Air Carrier Access Act (ACAA) regulation on the transportation of service animals by air to ensure a safe and accessible air transportation system.

The change in language was long overdue to prevent the abuse of the right given to persons with a disability to be accompanied by their Service Dog. The increase of badly behaved animals from peacocks to ferrets have forced airlines to petition for this latest change. The ACAA ‘s definition of Service Animal as dog now matches the Americans With Disabilities Act (ADA). The new regulations now eliminates Emotional Support Animals and categories them as pets.

The https://www.transportation.gov/sites/dot.gov/files/2020-12/Service%20Animal%20Final%20Rule.pdf">information below is from the Department of Transportation’s website.

This final rule defines a service animal as a dog, regardless of breed or type that is individually trained to do work or perform tasks for the benefit of a qualified individual with a disability, including a physical, sensory, psychiatric, intellectual, or other mental disability.

It allows airlines to recognize emotional support animals as pets, rather than service animals, and permits airlines to limit the number of service animals that one passenger can bring onboard an aircraft to two service animals. The final rule also allows airlines to require passengers with a disability traveling with a service animal to complete and submit to the airline a form, developed by DOT, attesting to the animal’s training and good behavior, and certifying the animal’s good health.

For flight segments of eight hours or more, the rule allows airlines to require passengers to complete and submit a DOT form attesting that the animal has the ability either not to relieve itself on a long flight or to relieve itself in a sanitary manner.

In addition, this final rule allows airlines to require a service animal user to provide these forms up to 48 hours in advance of the date of travel if the passenger’s reservation was made prior to that time. As an alternative, airlines may require a passenger with a disability seeking to travel with a service animal in the cabin to provide the forms at the passenger’s departure gate on the date of travel.

However, the final rule prohibits airlines from requiring that a passenger physically check-in at the airport solely on the basis that the individual is traveling with a service animal, thus ensuring that service animal users are not prevented from enjoying the same convenience-related benefits provided to other passengers, such as online and curbside check-in. Service animal users may use the online check-in process available to the general public.

This final rule also better ensures the safety of passengers and crew members by allowing carriers to require that service animals are harnessed, leashed, or otherwise tethered onboard an aircraft and includes requirements that would address the safe transport of large service animals in the aircraft cabin. Further, it specifies the circumstances under which the user of a service animal may be charged for damage caused by the service animal and addresses the responsibilities of code-share partners.

The statute requires airlines to provide accommodations that are reasonable given the realities and limitations of air service and the onboard environment of commercial airplanes. Animals on aircraft may pose a risk to the safety, health, and well-being of passengers and crew, and may disturb the safe and efficient operation of the aircraft. Any requirement for the accommodation of passengers traveling with service animals onboard aircraft necessarily must be balanced against the health, safety, and mental and physical well-being of the other passengers and crew, and must not interfere with the safe and efficient operation of the aircraft.

Final Rule Summary

• Definition of Service Animal: A service animal is as a dog, regardless of breed or type that is individually trained to do work or perform tasks for the benefit of a qualified individual with a disability, including a physical, sensory, psychiatric, intellectual, or other mental disability.
• Emotional Support Animals: Carriers are not required to recognize emotional support animals as service animals and may treat them as pets.
• Treatment of Psychiatric Service Animals: Psychiatric service animals are treated the same as other service animals that are individually trained to do work or perform a task for the benefit of a qualified individual with a disability.
• Species: Carriers are permitted to limit service animals to dogs.
• Health, Behavior and Training Form: Carriers are permitted to require passengers to remit a completed hardcopy or electronic version of the Department’s “U.S. Department of Transportation Service Animal Air Transportation Form” as a condition of transportation. Relief Attestation Carriers are permitted to require individuals traveling with a service animal on flights eight hours or longer to remit a completed hardcopy or electronic version the Department’s “U.S. Department of Transportation Service Animal Relief Attestation” as a condition of transportation.
• Number of Service Animals per Passenger: Carriers are permitted to limit the number of service animals traveling with a single passenger with a disability to two service animals.
• Large Service Animals: Carriers are permitted to require a service animal to fit on their handler’s lap or within its handler’s foot space on the aircraft.
• Control of Service Animals: Carriers are permitted to require a service animal to be harnessed, leashed, or otherwise tethered in areas of the airport that they own, lease, or control, and on the aircraft.
• strong>Service Animal Breed or Type: Carriers are prohibited from refusing to transport a service animal based solely on breed or generalized physical type, as distinct from an individualized assessment of the animal’s behavior and health.
• Check-In Requirements: Carriers are not permitted to require a passenger with a disability to physically check-in at the airport, rather than using the online check-in process, on the basis that the individual is traveling with a service animal. Airlines may require a passenger with a disability seeking to travel with a service animal to provide the service animal form(s) at the passenger’s departure gate on the date of travel.
• Advance Notice Requirements: Carriers may require individuals traveling with a service animal to provide a U.S. Department of Transportation Service Animal Air Transportation Form and, if applicable, a U.S. Department of Transportation Service Animal Relief Attestation up to 48 hours in advance of the date of travel if the passenger’s reservation was made prior to that time.

Jeanne Hampl

© 2021

Jeanne Hampl is the Chairman of our Handlers with Disabilities Committee

Please visit her Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Hampls-Dog-Obedience-141987085827318

]]> Wed, 12 Jan 2022 05:58:15 GMT https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=422767 https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=422767

Searching for the right dog trainer can seem like a daunting task for many. The options can seem dizzying, certification abbreviations may confuse, and sometimes behavioral jargon is lost on average owners just seeking better control and a better relationship with their pet. Often, articles that offer advice on trainer selection are biased, toting one method over another, writing off an entire style and the myriad of potentially outstanding professionals that may utilize it.

Since 1965, the National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors (NADOI) has welcomed professionals of all styles who meet their rigid criteria for quality.

Does certification matter? Dog training is an unregulated industry. Absolutely anyone can call themselves a dog trainer, hang out their shingle, and take your money – qualified or not. It seems a good idea to go with a “certified dog trainer.” Unfortunately, not all certifications are equal. Some are difficult, requiring lengthy essays, case studies, and video of the trainer at work to be reviewed by a board. Some are only written exams, while others are paid for through online-only training courses, and given without anyone seeing the applicant actually work with a dog or an owner.

NADOI certification is a lengthy process in which a professional must exhibit not only their skill as a trainer, but their success in teaching owners as well. Each application is individually reviewed by the membership board, who votes as a whole to accept or decline that application. As a nonprofit organization dedicated to upholding a high industry standard, becoming a certified member of NADOI is not something one may simply purchase.

What about a trainer who has earned training titles? If your goal is earning a certain title or degree, working with a trainer who has earned them is, in my opinion, necessity. What if you aren’t interested in titling your dog? Chances are, you just want your pet to behave. Should you care about titles?

Yes and no. If your dog pulls you on walks and doesn’t come when called, a trainer who’s titled in obedience, and whose clients have been equally successful, will likely serve you well. Their skills in obedience training have been proven in a fresh, highly distracting venue, judged by a qualified and unbiased third party, and can often be an alternative to certifications for some trainers. However, there are also many excellent pet dog trainers who do not compete in any venue but have impressive skills with the average family dog.

Dog training is a broad field with many specializations. NADOI encourages their members to learn from one other via their excellent resources for members, from seminars and speakers at their national gathering, to a vast training article anthology, and more.

Now we come to the greatest resource for professionals themselves: reputation and referrals. Here’s where you must start paying close attention. Many seasoned trainers care little for titles or certification, but are still outstanding at what they do. It stands to reason a trainer who has done great work for 10, 20, or 30 years will have an excellent reputation among local vets, groomers, breeders, and average owners. Has no one ever heard of the trainer you’re considering? Not so much a whisper of a footprint anywhere online? This could be the sign of a novice who may or may not have the experience to effectively train you or your dog.

Read reviews online, but read them with a grain of salt. Dog training is an emotionally charged subject, so it’s not uncommon to see multiple glowing reviews next to multiple poor ones. What that should tell you is that trainer’s style may be perfect for you, or completely wrong for you. Some styles are highly polarizing among the entire dog community. Its becoming more common to see trainers publicly denouncing one another and leaving false reviews, a practice the NADOI code of ethics strictly prohibits. When you work with a NADOI certified trainer, you will be working with a professional who values sharing their knowledge with you over maligning other local trainers.

While method is an important consideration, more so is the quality of that method’s execution. Read up a bit, get an idea of how you want to train, but keep an open mind. You may not want to train with food, but there could be a stellar trainer in your area who can help you reach all your goals who does. You may be horrified with the idea of a training collar until you see how happily a local balanced trainer’s students all work. Pushing yourself out of your comfort zone may help you and your dog attain a higher level of training than you previously imagined possible.

After all this, you think you have a trainer you want to try, so you contact them. How engaging is your trainer? Do they answer your questions fully and kindly without condescension? Do they ask you questions about your dog, gathering as much information as possible?

Do they spend more time denigrating other trainers and different methods than they do explaining what they can do themselves?

Has your trainer taken the necessary steps to run a legitimate, legal business? Do they require proof of shot records before training? Are they insured? All questions to strongly consider.

Does this trainer invest in themselves, continuing to grow in their knowledge to pass along to their clients? NADOI encourages this self-investment, and offers a “continuing education” distinction to certified members who spend a certain numbers of hours in classes, seminars, workshops, etc.

Depending on the services offered, you may have the opportunity to observe a trainer at work, in person or in video. Look at the whole body of work in the session you watch, but remember that one session does not tell the whole tale for that dog. Perhaps the dog you see with it’s tail tucked at heel was so nervous in previous sessions it could not walk on a lead at all- or perhaps the trainer is confusing the dog. Sometimes, dogs will show signs of stress on the road to being a happier, more well adjusted dog. If you see a concern, ask questions. Does the trainer acknowledge the signs of discomfort in the dog, and explain how they will eliminate them, or become defensive and short when questioned? At the end of a session, a dog should be in a better place not only behaviorally, but mentally and emotionally.

Most important to remember, don’t be shy to ask someone when you see a well behaved dog for the name of their trainer. Often, people are happy to discuss it or offer you a recommendation. Talk to your vet. Talk to your groomer. The finest trainers often come highly recommended from other trainers! It’s not uncommon for them to see well-trained dogs come in over and over who’ve worked with the same local professional.

Training is a financial and time commitment. You owe it to yourself and your dog to do some legwork first.

Happy training!

]]> Fri, 14 Jan 2022 23:44:25 GMT https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=486019 https://nadoi.site-ym.com/members/blog_view.asp?id=1954262&post=486019 In the latest copy of the “Guidelines for Obedience Judges” there is a statement that judges of TDX tests are to be sent detailed maps of the area to be used with obstacles, changes of cover, etc indicated. In addition, a copy of this map is to be forwarded to the AKC along with the paper work for the test. If you do not have an artist in the club with a good feel for the scale of the area, what do you do?

Having been faced with this very problem we looked for a solution. There are a variety of sources of good maps available. The soil Conservation Service (SCS) has aerial photos of every square inch of the United States. If you have a college near by, check to see if they have a map room. They may also have these same maps. They are available from SCS as Xerox copies of originals (at a charge). You first find the county of interest. You will be presented with a large mosaic of smaller photos, each of which has a number in one corner. Once you find the photo, which covers the area, in question, you will get an 8 x 10 copy, which you can then xerox. This copy will have a scale of 1:20,000 (1 inch = 225 yds). These can be enlarged by a copy machine to a scale of 1 inch = 225 yds. We then go to the fields and walk the area indicating on the copy fences, roads, heavy and light wooded areas, creeks, etc. The copy we send to the AKC has each track marked on it.

Another alternative approach is to check with realtors who deal with farmland or surveyors. In many cases they will have aerial photos with a scale of about 1:4800 (1 inch = 133 yds). The copy you get will be blue and will fade if not protected from bright light. The detail is much better and copies are of good quality. For some one who knows the areas well, tracks can be plotted on these before the test and much of the work the day of plotting is already done. In many cases all that is needed is to walk the track to be sure there are no surprises and to check that you measured correctly on the photo.

A third alternative is with the county commissioners or county tax office. The maps in these offices are generally topographical which appear as a lot of curved lines and concentric circles. These are elevation lines. These are a bit harder to read since they do not indicate woods or pasture land, only the elevation of the land.

Regardless of which is used, the boundaries of the test area should be indicated along with the scale. These are not meant to take the place of having someone who has a good knowledge of the fields the day of plotting, nor are they meant to take the place of getting out in the field to plot the track. They are an aid to both judges and tracklayers. We have found these very useful in new fields for TD as well as TDX because they can give an excellent idea of the space available and if it is sufficient.

Recently I was talking with a friend who was in the process of organizing a tracking match for his club. The question came up as to how much land would be needed for the test. In the back of my mind the figure of 10 acres per track kept coming up. I thought the AKC had suggested this number but I could not seem to find it anywhere. So I plotted a few tracks to calculate the amount of land needed for the tracks.

 

An acre equals 4840 square yards. The track alone (150) yds x 100 yds) in figure 1 takes up only 3.1 acres. However, there are several regulations that must be kept in mind. A track cannot be within 75 yards of another track and a track should not be within 15 yards of a boundary. These two regulations really eat up land. Figure 1 is a very economical track as far as use of land. If we assume tracks to the left and above this track, it requires 30881.25 yds. or 6.85 acres. This would represent the least amount of land provided all other factors were ideal. As one can see, including boundaries and the distances between tracks nearly doubles the amount of land needed for just one track. Unfortunately, we often have fields of between 10 and 15 acres, which hold only one track because of the way the field is laid out.

Let’s now consider the tracks in Figure 2. This field is not unlike many. It is bounded by roads at both end and the front and a fence at the rear of the field. The three tracks take up about 35 acres. The three tracks alone use 18.2 acres, again half that needed when boundaries are included. This field is limited in that the only way tracklayers can leave the field is to the main road or on the other side of the roads at either end.

Getting the track layer off the field can limit the number of tracks a field can hold even if there is ample room. Consider the tracks in Figure 3. At a recent teat we were faced with these fields. Tracks 1, 3 and 5 were all in the same field. To get the track layer out, track layer 3 had to leave the field through track 1; track layer 5 had to leave through track 3, and track layer 4 through track 2. To accomplish this, tracks 1 and 2 were walked. After dog 1 had run, track 3 was walked with the track layer leaving through track 1. After track 2 had been run, track 4 was walked. After track 3 was run, track 5 was walked. Had track 6 not finished where it had, tracklayers 3 and 5 could have reached the road by walking through the woods and the tracks could have been run in a different order? Had track 3 been designed differently, possibly only one track would have been in the same field with track 1 because of how the track layer would have had to leave the field.

The total area available for this test is about 300 acres. However, because of the boundaries and the location of wooded areas, we are limited to eleven TD tracks (10 tracks plus an alternate). We also use this area for out TDX. It will hold the six tracks needed for a five-dog entry. In a TDX test the crosstrackers as well as tracklayers must avoid the original as well as other tracks by 75 yards. The three TDX tracks on the last three pages of “guidelines for obedience Judges” require between 35 and 45 acres each.

In most cases, there are club members who have had plenty of experience tracking and are aware of the amount of land needed for a test. We are sometimes deceived as to the number of track we can get in a field. Often in training we do not observe the regulations, particularly the distance between tracks, if we have a large group with which to work. If there is any doubt, the best thing to do is get out there and walk the fields keeping in mind all the regulations before setting the limit for a test. Even then, have some extra fields available in case there are problems.

The AKC requires that maps of the area used for a TDX test be forwarded to them along with the test paper work. Aerial photos or detailed maps are also useful for TD tests. They provide a good overview of the area. If the scale is known, tracks can be sketched in. If there is a problem with not having enough land or how tracklayers will exit the field, they can consider it before getting in the field. However, while helpful, aerial photos and maps are no substitute for walking the fields so you are not suddenly faced with a surprise the weekend of the test.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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